One District One Product: Annamayya District - 1 | APPSC State Specific Preparation Course - APPSC (Andhra Pradesh) PDF Download

History of Madanapalle Sarees

• Madanapalle, previously known as Maryada Raamanna Pattanam, is renowned for its production of silk sarees. Local weavers specialize in crafting Madanapalle Silk Sarees, known for their exquisite silk, high quality, comfort, and elegance that enhances the wearer's beauty. The town is also celebrated for its silk products, including sarees and casual wear, known for their exceptional quality and affordability. Madanapalle silk sarees are highly coveted for weddings and special occasions, featuring matching blouse pieces. These sarees often showcase divine colors like maroon, red, pink, and violet, adorned with intricate motifs and woven with zari and silk threads.
• Madanapalle, formerly known as Maryada Raamanna Pattanam, is famous for producing silk sarees. Local weavers specialize in crafting Madanapalle Silk Sarees, known for their exquisite silk, high quality, and comfort.
• The town is renowned for its silk products, such as sarees, known for their exceptional quality and affordability.
• Madanapalle silk sarees are highly sought after for weddings and special occasions by women.
• These sarees are accompanied by matching blouse pieces and are often crafted in divine colors with intricate motifs.
• Madanapalle silk sarees are mostly available in colors like maroon, red, pink, and violet.

Raw Material Distinguinishness

Silk (Pattu)

• Silk, also known as the Queen of Textiles, is a natural protein fiber esteemed for its luster, shine, strength, and durability. 
• It is produced by silk worms spinning a cocoon around their bodies, extruding silk from spinnerets in their mouths. 
• The silk filaments solidify upon contact with air, forming a continuous thread. 
• Indian silk worms produce threads measuring approximately 340 meters, while Japanese varieties can yield threads of 1800 meters or more.

Varieties of Silk

• Mulberry Silk: This type of silk is produced by silkworms that feed on mulberry leaves and is commonly used in Madanapalle Silk Sarees.
• Tasar Silk: Another variety of silk produced by a specific type of silkworm.
• Eri Silk: This silk variety is sourced from silkworms that feed on certain plants.
• Muga Silk: Known for its golden color, this silk is produced by a unique silkworm variety.

Properties of Silk

Physical properties of silk

• Silk is a durable and shiny fiber with a breaking strength of approximately 4 grams per denier.
• It can stretch about 20% of its original length.
• With a density of 1.25, silk is slightly lighter than cotton, linen, or wool.
• It is highly hygroscopic, capable of absorbing up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet.
• After boiling off, silk's moisture regain under standard conditions is 9.25%.
• It can withstand heating up to 140°C without decomposing, but rapidly disintegrates at 170°C.
• Silk's surface is prone to chafing from abrasion.

Chemical properties of silk

• Silk, a protein fiber composed of amino acids, dissolves in a 5% NaOH solution when boiled.
• It also dissolves in hot glacial acetic acid, strong HCl, H₂SO₄, HNO₃, and alkaline solutions of certain metal hydroxides.
• Hot water affects silk's shine and texture.
• Silk has a strong affinity for tannic acid, used for both weightening and mordanting the fiber.
• Exhibiting both acidic and basic qualities, silk attracts both acid and basic dyes, absorbing dyestuffs at lower temperatures.

Processing of Silk

Degumming of Silk

• During degumming, silk yarn hanks are soaked in a soap solution at boiling temperature for a specific duration.
• The fibers swell, become sticky, and the gum dissolves during this process.
• After treatment, the yarn is washed, hydro-extracted, and dried.

Bleaching of Silk

• Coloring matter in raw silk mainly resides in the gum, which is removed during degumming.
• Pure silk appears white and usually requires bleaching only for specific purposes, like producing fully white fabrics.

Bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide (H₂O₂)

• Hydrogen peroxide is the preferred bleaching agent for silk due to its stability under acidic conditions. A pH of 8 to 9 is typically maintained for bleaching silk goods. Silicate is added as a stabilizer.
• The process involves immersing the material post-degumming into a bath at 40°C containing 2 volumes of hydrogen peroxide and 2 grams per liter of sodium silicate using a ratio of 1:20. The material is kept at this temperature for 1 to 2 hours, then rinsed, thoroughly washed, hydro-extracted, and dried.

Hydrose Treatment

• Commercial degumming and bleaching are combined in a single bath using mild soap and hydrose. The material is boiled for 1 to 2 hours, then removed, washed, hydro-extracted, and prepared for dyeing.

Dyeing of Silk

• Acid dyes are named so because they are best used in an acid dye bath.
• These dyes are made up of sodium salts of sulphonic acid, giving them an anionic nature.
• Many acid dyestuffs exhibit a strong affinity for silk, especially under neutral conditions, and work well at temperatures below boiling point.
• Boiled off liquor is commonly employed in the dyeing process as it acts as a leveling agent, maintaining the softness and luster of the silk.
• The dye bath is prepared by adding 100 to 500 ml/liter of boiled off liquor and slightly acidifying it with Acetic or Formic acid.
• The silk material is introduced at 50°C and pre-treated before adding the dye solution.
• The dye solution is added in stages, and the dyeing process continues for 1 to 1.5 hours until completion.
• If the dye bath is not fully exhausted at the end, 1 to 2% glacial acetic acid is incorporated, and dyeing is continued for an additional 10 to 15 minutes.
• Post-dyeing, the silk is rinsed, brightened by working in a dilute solution of Acetic Acid, and then dried without further rinsing.

Scooping of Silk

• Another unique property of silk is "scrooping," which produces a crackling sound when the fabric is squeezed or rubbed. This effect is not inherent to the fiber but is acquired through treatment with dilute acids like Formic acid, Tannic acid, or Acetic acid for a specific duration.

Pre-Loom and Pre-Weaving Activities of the Product

• Drying of Silk Warps
• Silk Yarn Winding
• Pirn Winding process with charka
• Pre Warp beam preparation
• Warp beam preparation
• Process of joining New warp with old warp by Twisting or Knotting

Madanapalle Silk Sarees Weaving

Saree Specifications:

Name of the variety: Wedding Saree Butta style

• Reed Count: 106
• Ends Per Inch: 106 (2 Ply)
• Picks Per Inch: 56 (3 Ply)
• Saree Length: 6.30 Meters
• Saree Width: 57 Inches
• Warp Count: 18/22 Denier
• Weft Count: 20/22 Denier
• 240 Jacquard using: 3 Machines
• Saree Weight: 760 Grams

Name of the variety: Running Temple

• Reed Count: 110
• Ends Per Inch: 108 (2 Ply)
• Warp Count: 20/22 Denier
• Saree Weight: 820 Grams

Name of the variety: Good Morning & Evening Border Style

• Reed Count: 110
• Ends Per Inch: 110 (2 Ply)
• Picks Per Inch: 56 (3 Ply)
• Saree Length: 6.30 Meters
• Saree Width: 57 Inches
• Warp Count: 20/22 Denier
• Weft Count: 20/22 Denier
• 240 Jacquard using: 3 Machines
• Saree Weight: 770 Grams

Name of the variety: Border Butta Broket Model

• Reed Count: 110
• Ends Per Inch: 110 (2 Ply)
• Picks Per Inch: 58 (3 Ply)
• Saree Length: 6.30 Meters
• Saree Width: 58 Inches
• Warp Count: 20/22 Denier
• Weft Count: 20/22 Denier
• 480 Jacquard using: 1 Machine Centre using jacquard 240 Machine
• Saree Weight: 850 Grams

Madanapalli Butta Silk Sarees

Conclusion

• Silk weaving is a significant economic activity in Andhra Pradesh, providing employment to a large number of people both directly and indirectly. Madanapalli serves as a hub for silk weaving, with many weavers involved in crafting silk sarees.
• Due to cluster development and skill enhancement programs, weavers have improved their skills, developed new designs, and adopted innovative techniques. This has led to weavers earning higher wages for intricate designs.

One District One Product Initiative

List of Products of Annamayya District

• Madanapalle Handloom Silk Sarees
• Raja Rani Dolls

Action plan report of Annamayya District for ODOP

• Identify and highlight locally popular products that can be commercially viable and connected to domestic and international markets.
• Provide support in design, packaging, branding, and logistics to enhance product quality and meet national and international standards.
• Develop a training roadmap to enhance skills in the identified cluster/product.
• Establish market connections through digital marketing, B2B/B2C transactions, and market intelligence gathering.
• Implement strategies to align with government schemes for technological upgrades and to meet international standards.
• Utilize state government schemes like YSR Nethanna Nestham to address working capital issues.
• Define key performance indicators for regular monitoring and value assessment.
• Form a District Level Committee chaired by the District Collector with relevant departmental members.
• Set targets at the cluster level for product promotion, income enhancement, and improved market access.
• Engage in cross-sector collaborations with organizations like CII, MSME Associations, and leading E-Commerce platforms for further exploration.

Details of District Nodal Officer, Nodal Department & Dedicated Team for ODOP

Provide detailed information about the District Nodal Officer, Nodal Department, and the dedicated team responsible for the One District One Product initiative.

Nodal Officer & Department

• Sri.P.Sreenivasa Reddy, Dist. Handlooms & Textiles Officer, Department of Handlooms & Textiles, Rayachoti, Annamayya Dist. A.P.

Dedicated Team for ODOP

Dedicated Helpline or Call Centre for ODOP

List of activities being undertaken by district administration for ODOP initiative

Details of ODOP sensitization workshop being conducted for current stakeholders and next generation stakeholders

• A total no. of 6 Workshops are conducted for sensitization towards the ODOP initiative to the Stakeholders at Angallu Village, Kurubalakota Mandal, and also at Madanapalle town.

List of Mentors Registered to Provide Mentorship

Details by Account Holder of all transactions (sales)

• The sales transactions and turnovers undergo regular auditing by the Statutory Auditor/Chartered Accountant. An estimated sales turnover of Rs.175.00 crores for the Financial Year 2022-23 has been determined for all firms/organizations involved in the product.
• The audit process for the accounts is currently in progress.

Mentorship Support Available

• The Department of Handlooms and Textiles is executing various programs to provide training and enhance skill development.
• Programs are conducted to supply improved tools and equipment to enhance the production of a wider range of products.
• Collaboration with 35 Primary Weavers Cooperative Societies, 24 master weavers, 10 Weavers Entrepreneurs, and 6 Self-Help Groups (SHGs) is in place to assist artisans involved in ODOP product production.
• The aim is to enhance skills, develop products, promote sales, and increase profits and recognition.

Funding Support Available for Artisans of Madanapalle Handloom Silk Sarees

Government Support:

• Pradhan Mantri Mudra Loans for Handloom Weavers
• Cluster Development Programmes
• Training programs under the SAMARTH scheme
• Supply of HSS items to artisans in the unorganized sector
• Marketing Incentives to boost product sales
• PMJJBY and PMSBY schemes for Handloom Weavers with matching contribution
• Handloom Expos/Exhibitions/Melas to promote product sales

State Government Support:

• YSR NETHANNA NESTHAM
• YSR PENSION KANUKA specifically for weavers
• AASARA
• Sales through APCO

Regulations and Schemes Supporting ODOP Initiative in Madanapalle

• Madanapalle Handloom Sarees involve the traditional craft of weaving, exclusively produced on handlooms. The product is safeguarded for creation solely on handlooms under the Handloom (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act. Special measures are in place to prevent production on powerlooms.

Details of Quality Assurance Labs/Certification Labs/Processing Units/Quality Infrastructure with Contact Details

• Madanapalli Handloom Silk Sarees are crafted from Pure Silk yarn, a natural fiber, and are endorsed with the Silk Mark accreditation by the Government. This ensures the authenticity and quality of the product.
• The Madanapalli Handloom Silk Saree also carries the "Handloom Mark" protection, guaranteeing consumers that they are purchasing a genuine product.
• Several labs, situated in Nagari, Chennai, are dedicated to certifying the quality of the Silk yarn utilized in the product and ensuring that the sarees are handcrafted on handlooms exclusively.

Details of department providing institutional support to beneficiaries availing support under ODOP initiative

The artisans of Madanapalle Handloom Silk Sarees receive institutional support from various Departments at the State and Central levels:

• Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Andhra Pradesh
• The A.P. State Handloom Weavers Coop Society (APCO), Vijayawada
• N A B A R D
• Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, New Delhi
• Weavers Service Centre, Vijayawada
• National Handloom Development Corporation, Vijayawada
• AP Khadi Village and Industries Board, Vijaywada
• Khadi and Village Industries Commission, Mumbai
• Department of Industries, Andhra Pradesh
• District Rural Development Agency (D.R.D.A.), Andhra Pradesh
• Handloom Export Promotion Council, Chennai