Handicraft of Telangana | Telangana State PSC (TSPSC): Preparation Course - TSPSC (Telangana) PDF Download

Introduction to Handicrafts of Telangana

• The state of Telangana, established in 2014, has made significant progress in various fields.
• Telangana boasts a diverse range of arts and handicrafts, with each district showcasing a unique form of traditional craftsmanship.
• The Telangana State Handicrafts Development Corporation Ltd was founded to promote, develop, and market artistic handicrafts and textiles, as well as to support craftspersons across the region.
• Golkonda Handicrafts serves as the official brand representing Telangana's arts and crafts.

Significance of Handicrafts in Telangana

• Handicrafts from the Telangana region have enjoyed a strong presence in the market for many years.
• A wide variety of handicrafts from Telangana are available, providing an excellent platform for promoting and marketing these products for the benefit of artisans.
• The capital city of Hyderabad, renowned for its crafts, contributes significantly to showcasing the craftsmanship of the region.

Handicrafts of Telangana

• Banjara Embroidery
• Bidri Craft
• Leather items
• Pearls
• Lacquer studded bangles and jewelry
• Hand Embroidery
• Glass Blowing crafts

Overview of Handicrafts of Telangana

• Handicrafts of Telangana are a cherished tradition known for their unique creation methods and exquisite craftsmanship. 
• These artisanal works are not only beloved by Indians but also appreciated worldwide, playing a significant role in the state's economy.

Bidri Craft

• Bidriware, a captivating art form of silver engraving on metal, has captivated admirers with its allure for centuries. Originating from Bidar, currently in Karnataka, it emerged during the reign of the Bahamani Sultans in the 14th century AD. Initially practiced in ancient Persia, Bidriware was introduced to India by followers of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti, blending Persian and Arabic influences with local styles to create a distinctive craft. The Nizam of Hyderabad further popularized Bidriware in Aurangabad, part of the Hyderabad state pre-1947.
• The intricate eight-stage process of Bidriware involves molding, filing, chiseling designs, engraving with silver inlay, smoothing, buffing, and oxidizing. Crafted from a copper-zinc alloy, Bidriware undergoes casting, filing, and coating with copper sulfate solution before artisans etch designs freehand and inlay silver using chisels. The item is then filed, buffed, and coated with a blackening paste of special soil and ammonium chloride to highlight the silver inlay against the black background.
• Bidriware artisans skillfully craft various designs, including floral motifs, geometric patterns, and depictions of poppy plants and human figures. Used for crafting items such as paan holders, hookahs, vases, bowls, ornament boxes, earrings, and trays, Bidriware has experienced a revival with innovative designs and patterns catering to modern home and lifestyle preferences.
• Bidar in Karnataka and Hyderabad in Telangana serve as prominent centers for Bidriware production, with the craft also practiced in other parts of India. Renowned for its exquisite inlay work, Bidriware is a significant export handicraft item from India, symbolizing wealth and cultural heritage. This indigenous art form has earned the prestigious Geographical Indications (GI) registry, reflecting its importance in India's handicraft market.

Banjara Needle Crafts

• Banjara Embroidery and Needlework, extensively crafted by the nomadic tribes of Telangana, reflect the rich cultural heritage of the region. Believed to be descendants of European gypsies, the Banjara tribe settled in the desert regions of Rajasthan, known for their vibrant attire and jewelry. Their migration to the Deccan Plateau during the 17th century under Aurangzeb's reign led to their widespread presence in the region, residing in small villages known as "tandas."
• Banjara women adorn themselves in colorful ghaghras, cholis, and odnis embellished with bold mirrors and appliqué work, showcasing the vibrant rural lifestyle of the community. The embroidery and needlework of Telangana's Banjaras exhibit a unique style, different from that of Kutch and Gujarat Banjaras. It features intricate geometrical patterns like diamonds, squares, and triangles, symbolizing the tribe's lively lifestyle.
• Utilizing colorful threads, beads, shells, and mirrors, Banjara embroidery is renowned for its vibrancy and originality. The incorporation of mirrors adds a splendid beauty to the artwork, reflecting sunlight and enhancing its allure. Various simple stitches such as herringbone and chain stitch are used to create a plethora of designs and figures, contributing to the distinctive charm of Banjara embroidery.
• Typically embroidered on blue or brown-colored quilted cloth, Banjara textiles are adorned with cotton or woolen threads to create intricate patterns, ensuring prominent color contrast. The products range from bags, purses, belts, cushion covers, quilts, and bedspreads to skirts, salwar suits, blouses, and more. Additionally, silver, cowries, brass, animal bones, and gold are incorporated into the embroidery, adding to its appeal.
• The exquisite craftsmanship of Banjara embroidery has gained admiration worldwide, with products sold widely in art and craft markets. Telangana's Banjara art and embroidery hold a prominent place in preserving and showcasing the region's cultural heritage, celebrated for its rural charm and aesthetic appeal.

Dokra Metal Crafts

Dokra Metal Crafts is a traditional tribal art form practiced in Jainoor Mandal, Adilabad District of Telangana, known for its exquisite bell metal craft. The Ojha metal smiths in states like Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, West Bengal, and Telangana are skilled practitioners of this ancient craft.

Origin and Practice

• Dokra, also called bell metal craft, is a tribal art form primarily practiced in Jainoor Mandal, Adilabad District of Telangana.
• The artisans, known as Ojjis in Telangana, specialize in creating brass metal art objects using the intricate lost wax technique for casting metal.
• This technique, which dates back over 4000 years in India, involves creating unique artifacts without joints, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship.
• The Dokra artifacts, predominantly crafted in brass, are revered for their distinctive designs, handcrafted nature, and aesthetic appeal.

Lost Wax Technique

• The process of making Dokra involves a meticulous combination of metallurgical skills and the lost wax technique.
• Artisans create clay cores, fill them with beeswax and resin, and shape them with intricate details before covering them with clay.
• After heating the mold to drain the wax, molten brass, gold, bronze, or silver is poured in and left to harden before the mold is chipped away to reveal the final product.

Artisan Community

• The craft is practiced by skilled artisans from the Woj community in Adilabad district, with approximately 50 families dedicated to this labor-intensive work.
• Each piece of Dokra craft, whether a simple figurine or a complex design, demands significant time and effort, with some intricate pieces requiring up to 2-3 weeks for completion.

Artistic Creations

• Common Dokra designs include metal figurines, elephants, folk motifs, peacocks, horses, and household items like measuring bowls.
• The art's popularity extends to both domestic and international markets, celebrated for its aesthetic appeal and traditional simplicity.

Dokra Metal Crafts exemplify the rich cultural heritage and artistic prowess of Telangana's handicrafts, showcasing a blend of traditional techniques and creative artistry.

Pembarthi Brass

• Pembarthi Metal Craft, originating from the village of Pembarthi in Warangal district, Telangana State, is renowned for its exquisite sheet metal artistry. With a history dating back over 800 years, Pembarthi has been a hub of exceptional craftsmanship, particularly by the skilled metalworkers known as the "Vishwakarmas." Situated approximately 80 km from Hyderabad, Pembarthi flourished during the reign of the Kakatiya dynasty, a period spanning 500 years.
• The metalwork tradition in Pembarthi gained prominence due to its association with the adornment of Hindu temples' statues and chariots, which received significant patronage from the Kakatiya rulers. As a result, the signature style of Pembarthi craftsmen is evident in many ancient temples across the Telangana region. The mastery of the Vishwakarmas elevated sheet metal craftsmanship to unparalleled levels of perfection, making Pembarthi Brassware a symbol of Telangana's artistic heritage.
• Following the Muslim rule, Pembarthi craftsmen adapted their artistry to create individual items such as betel nut cases, perfume containers, chandeliers, vases, plaques, and mementos. Despite political challenges, the craft endured, and in the post-independence era, it experienced a resurgence, catering to changing demands with an emphasis on both utility and aesthetics.
• Over the years, Pembarthi Brassware has seamlessly incorporated influences from both Hindu and Muslim cultures, reflecting a harmonious blend of artistic traditions. The craft form has received the prestigious Geographical Indication recognition, underscoring its significance and contribution to India's artistic heritage.

Pochampalli Handlooms

• Pochampally, along with several neighboring villages in the Yadadri-Bhuvanagiri district of Telangana, is renowned worldwide for its iconic Ikat designs and dress materials. Skilled weavers in this region meticulously craft threads and colors to create beautiful sarees and dress materials using the traditional Ikat or Tie and Dye weave technique. The distinctiveness of Pochampally fabric lies in the transfer of design and coloring onto the warp threads before weaving them together.
• Known locally as Chitki, Pogudubandhu, and Buddabhashi, Pochampally Ikat is distinguished by its unique patterns, different from other Ikat-producing centers in India. With over five thousand looms producing this textile, Pochampally utilizes cotton, silk, and sico (a silk-cotton blend) fabrics for weaving. In the Ikat weaving process, both warp and weft threads are tie-dyed before weaving, resulting in intricate geometric designs and vibrant colors.
• The precision in tying resistant areas with water repellent material determines the clarity of the design, while multiple dyeing stages add depth and complexity to the colors. Designs are meticulously planned on graph paper before weaving, and the natural movement during the weaving process lends a feathered edge to the Ikat designs, a hallmark of this technique.
• Pochampally handlooms are renowned for the durability of their colors, and the sarees produced here feature traditional geometric patterns with the Ikat style of dyeing. Skilled weavers in Pochampally and neighboring villages have been mastering these intricate designs for decades, with handlooms being upgraded over time to meet changing demands and customer preferences.
• Pochampally's weaving tradition has gained international recognition, with the village being included in UNESCO's tentative list of world heritage sites under the "iconic saree weaving clusters of India." The fabric is marketed through cooperative societies, master weavers, and business houses in the region, with Pochampally sarees receiving Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2005.
• Established in 1955, the Pochampally Handloom Weavers Cooperative Society Ltd. plays a pivotal role in marketing and selling these sarees, both domestically and internationally. The use of modern synthetic colors has enabled weavers to create exclusive designs while maintaining the essence of the Indian saree tradition. Notably, Air India's air hostesses wear specially crafted Pochampally silk sarees, highlighting the prestige and popularity of these exquisite creations.

Nirmal Art

• Nirmal Art is a centuries-old tradition that includes the production of soft wood toys, paintings, and furniture. It holds a significant place in the realm of handicrafts.
• The town of Nirmal in Adilabad district of Telangana, India, is renowned for crafting Nirmal toys, which are traditional wooden toys of exceptional quality.
• Nirmal Art has flourished due to the skilled craftsmanship of Naqqash artisans who migrated to the region from Rajasthan in the 17th century.

Artistic Techniques

• Nirmal toys are meticulously crafted from finely carved wood, often using a local softwood variety known as poniki or white sander.
• The artisans employ duco colors and enamel colors to adorn the toys, giving them a distinctive and shiny appearance.
• Nirmal paintings feature motifs inspired by floral designs from Ajanta and Ellora, as well as Mughal miniatures.
• The synthesis of Indian and Mughal art styles in Nirmal craft showcases the unique talent of the artisans.

Artistic Significance

• Nirmal toys and paintings are highly prized for their exquisite craftsmanship and artistic appeal, making them popular among art collectors.
• The use of herbal extracts and rich oil colors imparts a golden sheen to Nirmal toys, enhancing their visual allure.
• The Nirmal Industry, encompassing paintings and handicrafts, has gained recognition in the international market, fetching good prices for artisans.

Market Presence

• Hyderabad has emerged as a hub for Nirmal toys and paintings, with a growing market demand for these unique art forms.
• The Nirmal Toys Industrial Cooperative Society, established in 1955, serves as a major production center for artisans involved in toy making.
• Nirmal toys are considered ideal as gifts and souvenirs, reflecting the pride of Telangana in its rich artistic heritage.

Bronze Castings

• Telangana is renowned globally for its exceptional Bronze castings, which demand special skills and expertise from craftsmen.
• Craftsmen study the intricate details of 'Shilpashastra' to create exquisite idols with precise physical measurements, proportions, and symbolic features.
• The process involves creating a mold with multiple clay coatings on a wax model, resulting in finely detailed cast images.

Lacquer Ware

• Etikoppaka in Telangana is famous for its exquisite lacquer ware, created by applying lacquer on wood using hand-lathe or machines.
• Objects are lacquered by pressing lac against woodenware, generating heat through friction to soften the lac and allow colors to adhere.
• Artisans paint intricate designs on various items such as figures, objects, and toys, with lacquer bangles being a popular choice adorned with stones, beads, glass, and mirrors.

Silver Filigree

• The art of Filigree has its origins in Italian and French metalwork from the 17th to 19th centuries. Originally known as filigrann or filigrene, it entails delicate metalwork in jewelry, primarily crafted from gold and silver. Filigree pieces typically feature tiny beads or twisted threads, sometimes both, soldered onto a metal surface to form intricate motifs. 
• Karimnagar region in Telangana is renowned for its skilled artisans who specialize in Silver Filigree craftsmanship. They produce various articles including spoons, cigarette cases, jewelry, and perfume containers, often adorned with designs of peacocks, parrots, and fish. The artisans demonstrate exquisite skill in twisting silver wire into delicate loops, creating intricate lace-like patterns. 
• Using a combination of thin and thick silver strips, they solder loops to form unique designs, expanding the art beyond jewelry to household items like tea trays and key chains. Karimnagar Silver Filigree received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2007, recognizing its cultural significance and craftsmanship. 
• The art continues to attract enthusiasts and collectors, serving as a symbol of pride for Karimnagar district and showcasing generations of skilled craftsmanship.

Gadwal Handlooms

Description of Gadwal Handlooms

• Gadwal, located in Telangana, is renowned for its exquisite handloom zari sarees.
• The local weavers demonstrate exceptional skill, capable of folding over 5 meters of saree fabric to fit inside a matchbox.
• Gadwal sarees have been a popular choice for many years, known for their distinctive cotton body, silk border, and silk pallu.
• Materials used include Silk, Cotton, and Zari, with Tussar or mulberry silk for the border and unbleached cotton for the body.

Weaving Process and Techniques

• Weavers use a dyeing process to color the silk or cotton yarn based on specific requirements.
• The yarn is then dried, rolled, and loaded onto the loom for weaving.
• Gadwal sarees are traditionally woven using the interlocked-weft technique, resulting in unique designs for the borders.

Special Features of Gadwal Sarees

• Gadwal handlooms are known for their durability and vibrant colors achieved through a meticulous dyeing process.
• The softness or hardness of the fabric is determined by the weaving technique and thread count.
• Each thread in a Gadwal saree is hand-woven, showcasing the craftsmanship of the weavers.
• It takes 4-8 days of effort by two weavers to complete a single saree.

Varieties and Designs

• Various designs of Gadwal sarees are created, including Kotakomma or Kumbam sarees, woven with intricate patterns.
• Colored cotton or silk checks are sometimes incorporated into the designs, adding to the richness of the sarees.
• Weavers also produce pure silk models of Gadwal sarees, expanding the range of choices for customers.

Narayanapet Handlooms

• The handloom sarees of Narayanpet, situated in Mahabubnagar district of Telangana, are renowned for their unique production process where eight sarees are woven simultaneously on the loom. 
• This tradition dates back to the time of the Maratha king, Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, whose weavers reportedly settled in the region and introduced the art of weaving sarees with distinct designs, now known as Narayanpet sarees. 
• These sarees feature a characteristic checked surface with intricate ethnic designs on the borders and pallu, reflecting Maharashtrian influence. The weaving process involves mounting about 56 yards of silk on the loom at once, resulting in lighter sarees suitable for year-round wear. 
• The borders and pallus are adorned with rich designs and alternating red and white bands, creating an attractive contrast. The sarees come in various blends and shades, with cotton-silk blends and light pure silk sarees being particularly popular. The dyeing process ensures uniform color distribution without compromising the quality of the yarn, followed by weaving using the interlocked-weft technique. 
• The affordability, durability, and low maintenance of these sarees contribute to their popularity, catering to a wide demand for special occasions. Narayanpet handloom sarees represent a fusion of Telangana and Maratha styles, showcasing the diversity and aesthetic appeal resulting from cultural amalgamation. The tradition sustains the livelihoods of numerous weaver families across the region, symbolizing the rich legacy of Telangana's handicraft traditions.

Hyderabad - The City of Pearls

• Hyderabad, often referred to as the City of Pearls, is renowned for its diverse and exquisite collection of pearls, ranging in size, color, and shape. Considered a marvel of nature and a symbol of purity, pearls have been prized for adornment for over 5000 years. The city, situated in the heart of the Deccan Plateau and serving as the capital of Telangana, has long been associated with the lucrative pearl trade and the crafting of various pearl jewelry forms.
• The affinity for pearls among the Nizams and Qutb Shahi rulers led to the flourishing pearl trade in Hyderabad. Royalty often adorned themselves with pearls, attributing to their physical beauty and opulence. Craftsmen from around the world migrated to Hyderabad, enriching the city's craftsmanship and jewelry-making traditions. PattherGaati and Laad bazaar are renowned localities for pearl trading, boasting century-old pearl stores.
• Hyderabad stands as India's largest pearl trading center, renowned for its quality pearls and innovative jewelry designs. From necklaces to earrings, bracelets, rings, and more, Hyderabad offers a wide range of pearl jewelry crafted by skilled artisans. The city is celebrated for its luminescent and tear-drop pearls, meticulously crafted to perfection.
• Hyderabad's pearl industry procures pearls from various sources, subjecting them to meticulous processing to enhance their quality. The pearls undergo bleaching and grading processes, ensuring uniformity in shape, color, and size. Chandanpet, a village near Hyderabad, is renowned for its skilled artisans engaged in pearl drilling, making it one of the country's largest pearl drilling centers.
• The exquisite pearl jewelry crafted in Hyderabad attracts both local and international markets, showcasing the city's rich heritage and skilled craftsmanship.