Summary: Annamayya District

Table of Contents
1. Madanapalle - History of Sarees
2. Silk (Pattu) - Raw material
3. Properties of Silk
4. Processing of Silk
5. Pre-loom and Pre-weaving Activities
6. Madanapalle Silk Sarees - Weaving & Specifications
7. Economic Role & Cluster Development
8. One District One Product (ODOP) - Annamayya District
9. Governance, Support & Outreach
10. Funding & Schemes
11. Regulation, Quality & Institutional Support
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Madanapalle - History of Sarees

• Madanapalle (formerly Maryada Raamanna Pattanam) is known for handwoven Madanapalle Silk Sarees prized for fine silk, high quality, comfort, elegance and affordability.
• Products include sarees with matching blouse pieces, intricate motifs, zari work and colors commonly maroon, red, pink and violet, popular for weddings and special occasions.

Silk (Pattu) - Raw material

• Silk is a natural protein fibre noted for luster, strength and durability; produced by silkworms spinning cocoons into continuous filaments (Indian filaments ≈ 340 m; some Japanese ≈ 1800 m).
• Varieties of silk: Mulberry Silk, Tasar Silk, Eri Silk, Muga Silk.

Properties of Silk

• Physical: breaking strength ≈ 4 g/denier; elastic stretch ≈ 20%; density 1.25; hygroscopic (absorbs up to 30% weight without feeling wet); moisture regain 9.25%; stable up to 140°C, disintegrates ~170°C; surface prone to abrasion.
• Chemical: protein fibre dissolves in 5% NaOH when boiled and in strong acids (glacial acetic acid, HCl, H2SO4, HNO3) and some alkaline metal hydroxide solutions; hot water affects shine/texture; high affinity for tannic acid; amphoteric-binds acid and basic dyes and absorbs dyes at lower temperatures.

Processing of Silk

• Degumming: yarn hanks boiled in soap solution to dissolve gum; fibres swell, become sticky; then wash, hydro-extract and dry.
• Bleaching: colour in raw silk mainly in gum and removed by degumming; hydrogen peroxide bleaching uses pH 8-9 with silicate stabilizer (bath at 40°C, 2 volumes H2O2, 2 g/L sodium silicate, material:liquor 1:20 for 1-2 hours), then rinse, wash, hydro-extract and dry.
• Hydrose treatment: combined commercial degumming and bleaching with mild soap and hydrose, boiled 1-2 hours then washed and prepared for dyeing.
• Dyeing (Acid dyes): acid dyes are sodium salts of sulphonic acids (anionic); boiled off liquor (100-500 ml/L) is used as leveling agent; material introduced at 50°C, dye added in stages and run 1-1.5 hours; if not exhausted add 1-2% glacial acetic acid and continue 10-15 minutes; post-dye rinse and brighten in dilute acetic acid then dry.
• "Scrooping" (fabric crackle): produced by treating silk with dilute acids (formic, tannic or acetic) for a specified time to create a crackling sound/effect.

Pre-loom and Pre-weaving Activities

• Drying of silk warps
• Silk yarn winding
• Pirn winding using charka
• Pre warp beam preparation
• Warp beam preparation
• Joining new warp to old warp by twisting or knotting

Madanapalle Silk Sarees - Weaving & Specifications

• Common saree length ~6.30 metres; widths 57-58 inches; warp/weft counts mainly 18/22 or 20/22 denier; jacquard usage varies (240 or 480) with 1-3 machines depending on model.
• Selected variety specs: Reed Count 106 (Wedding Saree Butta) - Ends per inch 106 (2 ply), Picks 56 (3 ply), saree weight ~760 g. Running Temple - Reed 110, Ends 108 (2 ply), saree weight ~820 g. Good Morning & Evening Border - Reed 110, Ends 110, Picks 56, saree weight ~770 g. Border Butta Broket - Reed 110, Ends 110, Picks 58, width 58", 480 jacquard thru 1 centre + 240 machine, saree weight ~850 g.

Economic Role & Cluster Development

• Silk weaving in Andhra Pradesh provides direct and indirect employment; Madanapalle is a local hub with cluster development and skill programs improving design, technique and wages for intricate work.

One District One Product (ODOP) - Annamayya District

• Selected products: Madanapalle Handloom Silk Sarees; Raja Rani Dolls.
• Action plan: identify viable local products, support design/packaging/branding/logistics, create training roadmaps, build market links (digital, B2B/B2C), align with government schemes for tech upgrades, use state schemes (e.g., YSR Nethanna Nestham) for working capital, set KPIs, form District Level Committee chaired by District Collector, set cluster targets and pursue cross-sector collaborations (CII, MSME, e-commerce).

Governance, Support & Outreach

• District Nodal Officer: Sri P. Sreenivasa Reddy, District Handlooms & Textiles Officer, Dept. of Handlooms & Textiles, Rayachoti, Annamayya District.
• Workshops: six ODOP sensitization workshops held at Angallu Village, Kurubalakota Mandal and Madanapalle town.
• Mentorship & training: Department programs, supply of improved tools, partnerships with 35 primary weavers cooperatives, 24 master weavers, 10 weaver entrepreneurs and 6 SHGs to boost skills, product range and sales.
• Estimated audited sales turnover for FY 2022-23: Rs. 175.00 crores (audit in progress).

Funding & Schemes

• Central: Pradhan Mantri Mudra loans for handloom weavers; Cluster Development Programmes; SAMARTH training; supply of HSS items to unorganised artisans; marketing incentives; PMJJBY & PMSBY with matching contribution; handloom expos/exhibitions.
• State: YSR NETHANNA NESTHAM; YSR Pension Kanuka (weavers); AASARA; sales support via APCO.

Regulation, Quality & Institutional Support

• Protected under the Handloom (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act - production restricted to handlooms; measures discourage powerloom production.
• Quality assurances: products made from pure silk yarn carry Silk Mark and Handloom Mark; testing/certification labs located in Nagari and Chennai for yarn quality and assurance of handloom production.
• Institutional support from: Dept. of Handlooms & Textiles (AP); APCO Vijayawada; NABARD; Ministry of Textiles (GoI); Weavers Service Centre Vijayawada; NHDC Vijayawada; AP Khadi Board Vijayawada; KVIC Mumbai; Dept. of Industries (AP); DRDA (AP); Handloom Export Promotion Council Chennai.