NEW! DIY Ambilight Tutorial; For ANY HDMI Device! - EASY!! The Mad Scientist Video Lecture | Drones for Beginners: Build a Raspberry Pi Drone - Electronics and Communication Engineering (ECE)

okay so I'm mad scientists and I'm here
I want to show you how to make a
do-it-yourself Ambilight system for your
HDTV if you're not sure what this is
this thing is pretty cool
basically we're going to put LED is
around the back of our television and
from there we can control these with a
mini computer which are called Raspberry
Pi if you're not familiar with it it's
really awesome device okay so let's get
started so first we need a bunch of
different materials Raspberry Pi 2 will
work just fine 3 is recommended 3 the
differences with the 3 it's the same
cost as the two it's a newer device as
Wi-Fi and Bluetooth built in and it has
a faster processor if you can't get your
hands on a 3 though and you have a 2
available - that's fine that'll work
definitely need an 8 gigabyte or a
larger class 10 SD card the image that
I'm providing here from my SD card was
put on an 8 gigabyte card so anything
smaller and it's not going to fit but a
gigabyte or bigger is fine you don't
need to have bigger one okay you'll do
the job let's see the 2.5 amp USB to
micro USB charger this is how you power
the Raspberry Pi the PI 3 recommends
that you have 2.5 amps because that's so
much power it's going to send 2 USB
ports alright next we need an Arduino
Uno
those are cheap you can I've provided
links to everything but they generally
cost around five dollars so that's no
big deal
hdmi splitter an hdmi selector extreme
night 8 2 V converter ok we want to make
sure when you buy it it's capable of
upscaling to 1080p in that a USB grabber
ok it's important for this tutorial I'm
not saying other ones won't work that
you find one with a chipset
it's a foosh foosh it for shine chipset
I think that's I say it anyway it'll say
UTV 0:07 and I also provided a link to
that also we need a 5 to 10 8 a 5 volt
10 amp power supply to power the LEDs
that should be enough of a power supply
to probably power 10 meters of these
LEDs for my setup I think I used like
three and a half meters for a 42 inch TV
but it depends on how many LEDs per
meter you get my setup has 30 LEDs per
meter but they have better ones now
where you can get 60 even 140 LEDs per
meter which would be really awesome any
of those will work fine but just
remember the number of LEDs determines
how much power it's going to take in
HDMI cables obviously you're going to
need a few of those you'll need the
ws2812 B RGB strip 5 meters should be
most TVs and some wire and a soldering
iron and some double-sided tape this is
how you secure these to the to the
television Bob let's move on now here's
a materials links list
well on just a second well through each
of these links right now but anyway I
did provide links here to each of the
devices that I bought that worked great
I found them cheap on Aliexpress if
you're not familiar with that site they
have a lot of things that are pretty
cheap the only problem is they come from
China so they may take a couple weeks
before you get them okay so anyway they
go ahead and look at these links buy
these parts or find ones that are the
same maybe cheaper somewhere else and
this is what you're going to need to
make this system work now I've also
provided a few software links the reason
they did this was I've been trying to
build the system for a while and most of
the tutorials I found online are
severely out of date there or they're
not made to work with ollie HDMI devices
they're made to work off of one device
only which most of us have several
devices or you don't watch everything
from your computer if you do watch
everything strictly from your computer
then there you don't need the Raspberry
Pi you don't need the splitter you don't
need those things there's a cheaper way
to do this but I'm not going to cover
that in this tutorial basically all the
information I found out there was either
outdated or came from some Russian
website or you know things are tough to
follow so I wanted to make this easy for
everybody so this first link I've
provided here this is actually contains
the arduino sketch you're going to have
to load onto the arduino uno it also
contains the disc image that the
Raspberry Pi is going to need and the
hypercar file this file is what you'll
use to configure your setup once you're
done then there's a link to the arduino
ide in case you don't already have it
you'll need it to
load sketches onto the Arduino Uno the
neopixel library for the LED strip that
is part of the Arduino IDE I'll cover
how to install that as well and then the
win32diskimager
that is to actually burn the image to
the SD card that I provided in the other
link okay so the first step for all this
is to configure the LEDs on the back of
the TV
this isn't that difficult to do and this
is where you'll need your double-sided
tape unless the RGB strip that you
bought already has a 3m adhesive on the
back many of them do mine didn't so I
just use double sided tape so you always
want to start at the bottom left corner
to place that row of LEDs and you're
going to make sure that the error on the
strip of the LEDs is going to the right
and then cut you're going to cut the
strip when you get to the corner and
make sure you cut it like I show in this
arrow right down the middle of those
solder pads okay
now you're going to place a strip on the
right side and be careful to make sure
that the arrows are also going in the
same direction that we want this to be
one continuous strip of LEDs once it
goes around the TV so now we do the same
thing to the top and we are going to
arrange them so that it's going to the
other direction and then lastly on the
left side we are going to do the same as
you can see this can makes a continuous
strip around there starting at the left
bottom corner so you're facing the back
of the TV and you're going
counterclockwise once we turn the TV
around to the front dial LEDs are going
to go clockwise
ok so now the next step once you've
attached the mall to the TV need to
solder the corners together for the LED
strips to make this a continuous strip
again this drawing here shows basically
how to do it you have to make sure that
you're not mixing the ground has to go
to ground 5 volts to 5 volts and D out
goes to D n on the next strip don't mix
the pads it won't work okay now you want
to do this for all three corners that we
had to cut but don't worry about the
last corner we don't need to do it for
that that's actually the end of the LED
strip so once it's all soldered back
together we now have a continuous strip
I I'm pretty good with a soldering iron
myself I do this for a living however
they do make and you might be able to
find these on la express corner of
junctions for these that just snap into
place and so you won't have to solder I
didn't use those I don't know if I trust
them personally but you can look around
and see if you can find those
that'll make it go a little faster if
you're not very comfortable with a
soldering iron alright next you want to
wire this LED strip up to a power supply
that we bought the 5 volt 10 amp power
supply in the case for this you'll want
to make sure that you go from red to V
plus or plus V in this case and black
goes to V minus which is your for DC
your + and your ground the third wire
sometimes I'm my son my RGB strip it was
green sometimes they're blue but that's
going to connect to the Arduino later if
you haven't done so already you also
need to power or wire the power supply
to a wire plug to go to the wall so you
can plug it in
I found an old computer PC power cord
and just cut the end off and inside I
had these colored wires I looked online
I found out what color wires go to what
and most of them are the same but double
check your particular wire for the color
codings that you'll need to go to this
power supply okay next
oh also it's a good idea to have a
ground from the power supply going to
the Arduino this is important you might
get flickering on the LED strips random
colors if you don't do that the Arduino
is actually supplying the data to the
RGB strip and if it doesn't have the
same ground potential as the RGB strip
does then you might get data errors so
it's just a good idea to run that extra
ground from here to the Arduino Arduino
has several ground pins just pick any
one of them and it should work fine okay
now we need to count the LEDs we're
going to have to use this information
later for the hyperion setup so if we
turn it around count them we need to
know this so first we want to count the
number of vertical LEDs up and down my
particular TV I had 16 on the left side
16 on the right side so then you want to
count the horizontal LEDs mine has 28
yours you know like I said mine is a 30
meter or 30 LEDs per meter if you're
going with 60 LEDs per meter or if you
have a larger TV or smaller TV your
accounts not going to be the same so
just make sure you count these you write
them down and then you also need to know
the total number of LEDs all the way
around and basically it's just going to
be two times the vertical sides two
times the horizontal sides once you know
that write them down we're going to need
this information for both sketch
for the Arduino and for the Hyperion app
leader okay so at this point as far as
the hardware setup goes the hardest part
is finished so now we need to move on to
the software part and there's really two
parts to this there are three I guess
the first part is going to be to install
our duo IDE on your computer and then
load the sketch now once again here's
the link to the Arduino IDE software
you'll need this to load up the sketch
and then transfer it over to our do we
know let's see so basically just take
the Arduino and plug it into any of your
USB ports and then open the sketch that
I provided in the software package link
okay and I think I called the sketch
Ambilight high period
you're going to change if you look at
the sketch you can see here mine has 88
but this is going to be the total number
that's on the system you're building and
also you can see here this data pin 10
that's the data pin that's where the
data is going to come out of your
Arduino to go to the RGB strip so don't
change that number when you plug your
Arduino into your RGB strip you're going
to be plugging it into data pin 10 and
also you know look at the baud rate says
500,000 don't change that either but
you'll need to know that later that's
going to be this you need to put that
same number into the Hyperion sketch
okay now one other thing is to make this
sketch compile and load correctly we
need that install the right library on
here for the neopixel master so let's
see I thought I provided us yes I do
ok
so you're going to have to install this
library to the arduino ide and you also
want to make sure under the tools menu
board to select up the uno and to select
the correct comport that you're on in
that cowboy may change depending on if
you unplug it plug it into a different
USB port sometimes it will change your
comport just just check it make sure so
I told you the download link before for
this neopixel master zip file I just
download and put them onto my desktop so
they're easy to find and then in here
you're going to go to sketch include
library add zip file find that file hit
OK it's going to install it
automatically and you should be all set
next you want to go to the sketch menu
and hit the upload button which is right
here that's going to load the sketch to
your Arduino and now your Arduino is all
programmed you're done you don't have to
do anything else
all right now next we're going to
install the pre-configured pie image I
provided onto the SD card basically
you're going to have a zip file or a RAR
file and you need to extract the file
OSM c-pulse setup all working that was
included in the software link that's the
card image now what this is is a copy of
OS MC with cody 16.1 Jarvis on it if
you're not familiar with Cody you're
going to love this software this is like
a Netflix on steroids anything you can
think of any movie any show you'll find
it on there and it'll stream it live
just like a Netflix system would and
then I also put a custom build on it
called pulse what it does is that adds a
lot of different add-ons into it make it
really nice and smooth and easy to find
that content you're looking for whether
it's movie whether it's music whether
it's
TV shows it's all there and I mean this
basically turns your your Raspberry Pi
into a full-on multimedia system and
you'll notice that it has the Aries
wizard on it as well what that is is
it's a basically a wizard that will let
you try different custom builds that are
already pre-configured for you on there
if you're a sports nut you can find a
custom build for sports if you just like
movies if you like a kid's build that
has nothing but kids shows and stuff
you're going to find it all on there so
basically once you've got it on there
you can go ahead and mess around with
the aries build and you're going to love
it it's great and it's fully up to date
not like some of the other tutorials
where everything's two years behind this
is this is current as of today and I've
already loaded all the drivers that
you're going to need it for everything
on here which took me days to do using
the old out-of-date tutorials that I can
find basically this is why this set up
is going to be much easier for anybody
to build everything's up to date
everything works so it's already got a
basic my version of Hyperion's on it set
up for my TV but I'll be showing you
later in this tutorial how to make a few
changes to get it all set up for yours
it'll be very easy
once you've burned it to the or once you
unzip it then you gotta put your SD card
into PC and we're going to double click
on the wind disk 32 image your program
that you downloaded already that's going
to be where you install it and basically
all you need to do is run it as
administrator select the image file and
select the SD card in your computer and
then write and once it's done running to
the SD card you're all set just put the
card in your Raspberry Pi and that part
of its done ok moving on
now we get the fun part we're going to
hook it all up okay so it looks kind of
like a lot but it's not too bad and in
the end it's a little messy but you can
easily take this and put it into a nice
custom fixture of your own any kind of
box and it'll work nicely and it'll look
nice but you got to make sure whatever
you put this in has some kind of
ventilation I put it all into a box and
it was running fine but it would reboot
occasionally I found out some of these
devices make a lot of heat and it was
actually rebuilding the pie occasionally
once I put some ventilation in which was
just a few slots in the box so air could
flow everything's working perfect okay
so first thing is you know your power
supplies plug in the RGB strip now plug
the data line into pin 10 of the Arduino
if your wire doesn't have a plug that
can fit into the plug it's okay to just
solder to pin 10 underneath there too we
know that works fine to effects water
and may even be a better idea because it
gives you a better connection and then
plug the Arduino via USB cable into the
pie and that's it Arduino is powered by
the PI's USB so we don't need to do
anything else there okay now select a
plug an HDMI cable from one of the
outputs of the DV HDMI splitter into
your TV and then plug the output of the
HDMI selector into the input of the HDMI
splitter now on your splitter plug the
second output of that into the HDMI to
AV converter and also at this time you
can plug all your HDMI devices into your
herbs into your selector
now on the HDMI to AV converter we don't
really need the we don't need the audio
at all we're only going to process the
video so you can see on the output side
of the HDMI kV the yellow output is your
video line and we need to connect that
to the L input on the Video Grabber on
the USB grabber so just plug in that
don't worry about the audio cables we're
not going to use them okay now the USB
grabber needs to get plugged into one of
the USB ports on the PI one thing I
found is that the grabber needs a little
bit more power than most of the other
USB devices so on the PI you have two
stacks of USB ports plug the USB grabber
into one of the two stacks that's not
being used by anything else so that it's
the only device on that stack that's
going to give it enough power to run
properly and it won't be splitting the
power into more than one device so right
now you should have the USB grabber in
one stack in the uno plugged into the
other stack and if you're going to plug
in a USB keyboard or USB mouse or USB
remote I would plug it into the same
stack that the uno is on and leave the
grabber on one by itself
okay so everything's hooked up now we're
going to power it up and configure Wi-Fi
in the OS MC so power it up turn it on
on the TV you should see your OS MC come
up and this is this way when you get
into cody you're going to be nice to
have a keyboard or mouse because you
really need to control it somehow so
once your cody is fully booted up
navigate to programs and select it okay
now look for the selection called my OS
MC under your programs that's going to
open up your OS MC setup menu and this
is where you're going to go to configure
your devices but mainly right now we
need to configure your network settings
so at the very bottom you've got the
network icon select that now select your
wireless on the left and if you plan to
use Wi-Fi otherwise if you're just going
to use a network cable you don't need to
worry about Wi-Fi the pi2 doesn't have
Wi-Fi so you should see a list on the
right screen of all your wireless
networks so select the network you want
to join put your network password in and
connect I found sometimes it takes a
couple times to get a successful
connection sometimes I've it says it's
unsuccessful but you reboot everything
comes up fine just go back in get in and
go back to your settings because now you
want to write down the IP address that
you're going to get once you're
connected and you're going to need this
later with a Hyperion
the hyper kind well to connect to it and
upload your new hyper con configuration
file okay so that's really it now your
Kodi setup should all be done and you
can begin streaming all kinds of video
content through Kodi you can select a
different HDMI input whether it's a
cable box an Xbox
a Roku
you name it Amazon fire stick you're
going to you're going to love this setup
but the so as far as the hardware goes
we're done the last thing to do is
modify the hyper con file for your
particular setup so we're going to
configure Hyperion so run the hyper con
file that I included with the download
folder this is it for the big zip file
once you run it you're going to see it
it's going to look just like this file
here double click it and open it up okay
so now we're just going to modify a few
settings to make nigut you know for your
setup so basically in the hardware tab
of the hyper con you want to make it
look like this it's got to be an analyte
4 type 4 type your output is going to be
the dev ttyl USB oh now we're going to
change your baud rate to 500,000
remember that's what was in the Arduino
sketch so this needs to match it
otherwise it's not going to work
correctly ok
and now over here for clockwise now
these settings here these have to match
what's on your TV so remember I told you
to write down your horizontal and
vertical LED numbers you're going to
change these values here so that they
match ok and then once you do that if
you look at the GUI this first LED
offset for me it was 44 just modify it
until 0 ends up down in the bottom right
corner of your TV you'll be able to see
it change as you modify it ok and some
some I didn't in my setup but if you
have an LED in the corner of your setup
you can select these checkboxes
okay leave the rest of the settings for
now you don't need to mess with them you
can change those later if you want to
change the depth on these two settings
or the overlap you can I usually wait
til later after everything's working and
then just play around with those okay
yeah and now click Save here so so
you're going to save all these files to
adapt file I usually save it to my
desktop you can save it wherever you
want okay now on the process tab pretty
much there's no need to change anything
in this tab yet you could adjust later
if you want to for me I got it all
working first then went back and changed
my saturation in my game and my gamma a
little bit just to just to fine-tune it
it's going to be different for every
setup so the default settings are
usually going to be just fine so again
click Save every time I make changes I
save it so I I can go back and mess
around with it later
okay now we're going to go to the
grabber tab okay so pretty much just
make it look the same as it does in this
picture here okay I unchecked the
internal frame grabber and check the
grabber here make sure that device is
the same and all these settings are the
same then click Save again okay now the
external tab you pretty much just make
it look the same as it is in this
picture again and click Save now though
this is a good place to also create your
configuration so the very bottom button
here create hyper con configuration
create that save it to a location of
your choice I usually will save it to my
desktop and it's an easy place to find
it okay now the last tab this is the SSH
tab this is where we're going to upload
the configuration to your Raspberry Pi
so for this to work your computer needs
to be on the same network as the
Raspberry Pi so basically for target IP
your IP address that we recorded before
from your OS MC settings on the PI so
write that down from before just put it
in here leave the port at 22 and for
username and password we're going to use
osm see and also osm see once you've
done with that save it now click connect
you should be connected to your
Raspberry Pi so from here we're going to
click the send config button that's this
button here that's grayed out in this
picture and I click that and that's
going to that's going to update the
Raspberry Pi with your configuration not
the one I already had loaded on it so
all these changes are going to get
uploaded and we're going to click Save
so now we're going to create the
configuration one more time because
that's going to save these other changes
that you just made and later when you go
back into it to fine-tune it you won't
have to go through all this again
they're already in it alright so once
it's once the Raspberry Pi has a new
configuration on it reboot the Raspberry
Pi and it should work it takes about 20
seconds before your LED strips will
light up and start working that's
because as a delay in the arduino code
that's there on purpose to let the
Raspberry Pi finish booting up into um
Oh SMC before it starts transmitting the
data to your LEDs so that's normal
okay so at this point everything's done
if you don't everything right here new
system should be working and nothing
left to do but some fine tuning so I've
also added a couple extra thoughts here
so like I said before if you get some
occasional flickering double-check that
your connections familiy d-- strip to
the arduino are not loose because that
can make that can result in some random
flickers of color if you do want to box
it all up and make it look nice which I
did remember that these components
especially the PI will get pretty warm
so give it some ventilation if you don't
you're going to get some random
rebooting and then go to the Hyperion
wiki if you want to do any color
calibration or fine tuning and that's
about it so it's going to be a little
different for every setup but actually
the default settings the basic settings
work pretty well so you won't really
need to do much fine-tuning here ok this
should do it at this point everything
should be working perfect and if you
have any problems just go over and
double check everything
oh also another thing that can give you
some random flickering is if you have
something and plugged into the same
circuit that's very noisy like a vacuum
clear things like that because that
other than that should work pretty well
so just give you some questions in
youtube if you have any problems to know
respond and try and lunch and try and
help you out ok this is the mad
scientist signing off
look for some more future videos from
other tech stuff that I like to put
together