Page 1 All of us enjoy decorating our bodies. In ancient times it was believed that besides enhancing its beauty, decorating the body gave it additional strength and power. Even today many tribal societies use flowers, wild berries, leaves and feathers for this purpose. Flowers and fruits celebrate nature and growth while feathers are valued for their colour and for the power of flight. Seeds, even wings of insects such as colourful beetle wings are used as embellishment and decoration. One of the oldest forms used in jewellery was that of a sphere, representing the seed, the bija. Later a range of beads were made from clay, glass, metals and precious stones. This symbolised fertility, growth and the origin of life. Many jewellery forms made in metal reproduce forms of flowers and fruits. Champakali is a necklace made of jasmine bud motifs and is worn throughout India. Karanphul jhumka is a combination of the form of an open lotus at the ear lobe and a suspended half open bud. Mangai mala is a rich necklace from Tamil Nadu, with stylised mango forms studded with rubies. Precious metals such as gold and silver were for the rich while the less affluent used even brass and white metal. Gold was associated with the sun, and silver, chandi, with chandrama ó the moon. In the past when there was discrimination on the basis of caste, only the upper castes were allowed to wear gold. This is now changing and those who can afford it, wear gold and precious jewels. 5 JEWELLERY Strings made of different types of seeds Page 2 All of us enjoy decorating our bodies. In ancient times it was believed that besides enhancing its beauty, decorating the body gave it additional strength and power. Even today many tribal societies use flowers, wild berries, leaves and feathers for this purpose. Flowers and fruits celebrate nature and growth while feathers are valued for their colour and for the power of flight. Seeds, even wings of insects such as colourful beetle wings are used as embellishment and decoration. One of the oldest forms used in jewellery was that of a sphere, representing the seed, the bija. Later a range of beads were made from clay, glass, metals and precious stones. This symbolised fertility, growth and the origin of life. Many jewellery forms made in metal reproduce forms of flowers and fruits. Champakali is a necklace made of jasmine bud motifs and is worn throughout India. Karanphul jhumka is a combination of the form of an open lotus at the ear lobe and a suspended half open bud. Mangai mala is a rich necklace from Tamil Nadu, with stylised mango forms studded with rubies. Precious metals such as gold and silver were for the rich while the less affluent used even brass and white metal. Gold was associated with the sun, and silver, chandi, with chandrama ó the moon. In the past when there was discrimination on the basis of caste, only the upper castes were allowed to wear gold. This is now changing and those who can afford it, wear gold and precious jewels. 5 JEWELLERY Strings made of different types of seeds 50 LIVING CRAFT TRADITIONS OF INDIA Meaning and Significance of Jewellery In some tribal societies, each ornament was a symbol of the rank and status of the wearer, and it was also believed to have certain magical powers. Thus, the purpose of ornamentation was not only to satisfy an instinctive desire to decorate the body, it was also invested with symbolic significance. This aspect is clearly expressed in the form of amulets which carry inscribed prayers to protect the wearer from evil influences. All communities and faiths use this form of jewellery as protection against harm or to activate certain positive qualities. It was with the establishment of a settled agrarian society that jewellery became a form of saving and a symbol of status. A variety of designs in folk jewellery evolved over the years, and the important position of the jeweller in village society also points to the fact that jewellery was considered as the only form of investment which could be encashed during an emergency. It was mandatory for married women to wear jewellery. Necklace, earrings, head ornaments and bangles were essential for every married woman. It was only widows who were deprived of jewellery. Jewellery for Every Part of the Body Each region in India has a particular style of jewellery that is quite distinct. Differences occur even as one goes from one village to another. Despite the variety in jewellery patterns in different parts of the country, the designs in each region are also at times strikingly similar. Head and Forehead: Women wear the bore resting upon the parting of the hair in Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, whereas the tikka, a rounded pendant at the end of a long chain which falls on the forehead, is used throughout India. The shringar patti which frames the face and often connects with the tikka on the top and the earrings are also used widely. In earlier times men wore the kalgi, a plumed jewel, on top of the turban. Nose: The ornament worn all over India has variations from the simple lavang, clove, to phuli, the elaborately worked stud, or nath, the nose-ring worn in the right nostril, and the bulli, the nose ring worn in the centre just over the lips. Streedhan: From Vedic times onwards, jewellery was counted as a womanís wealth and comprised a part of her inheritance from her father, as well as a gift from her husband. Ornaments worn by a Bhartanatyam dancer Page 3 All of us enjoy decorating our bodies. In ancient times it was believed that besides enhancing its beauty, decorating the body gave it additional strength and power. Even today many tribal societies use flowers, wild berries, leaves and feathers for this purpose. Flowers and fruits celebrate nature and growth while feathers are valued for their colour and for the power of flight. Seeds, even wings of insects such as colourful beetle wings are used as embellishment and decoration. One of the oldest forms used in jewellery was that of a sphere, representing the seed, the bija. Later a range of beads were made from clay, glass, metals and precious stones. This symbolised fertility, growth and the origin of life. Many jewellery forms made in metal reproduce forms of flowers and fruits. Champakali is a necklace made of jasmine bud motifs and is worn throughout India. Karanphul jhumka is a combination of the form of an open lotus at the ear lobe and a suspended half open bud. Mangai mala is a rich necklace from Tamil Nadu, with stylised mango forms studded with rubies. Precious metals such as gold and silver were for the rich while the less affluent used even brass and white metal. Gold was associated with the sun, and silver, chandi, with chandrama ó the moon. In the past when there was discrimination on the basis of caste, only the upper castes were allowed to wear gold. This is now changing and those who can afford it, wear gold and precious jewels. 5 JEWELLERY Strings made of different types of seeds 50 LIVING CRAFT TRADITIONS OF INDIA Meaning and Significance of Jewellery In some tribal societies, each ornament was a symbol of the rank and status of the wearer, and it was also believed to have certain magical powers. Thus, the purpose of ornamentation was not only to satisfy an instinctive desire to decorate the body, it was also invested with symbolic significance. This aspect is clearly expressed in the form of amulets which carry inscribed prayers to protect the wearer from evil influences. All communities and faiths use this form of jewellery as protection against harm or to activate certain positive qualities. It was with the establishment of a settled agrarian society that jewellery became a form of saving and a symbol of status. A variety of designs in folk jewellery evolved over the years, and the important position of the jeweller in village society also points to the fact that jewellery was considered as the only form of investment which could be encashed during an emergency. It was mandatory for married women to wear jewellery. Necklace, earrings, head ornaments and bangles were essential for every married woman. It was only widows who were deprived of jewellery. Jewellery for Every Part of the Body Each region in India has a particular style of jewellery that is quite distinct. Differences occur even as one goes from one village to another. Despite the variety in jewellery patterns in different parts of the country, the designs in each region are also at times strikingly similar. Head and Forehead: Women wear the bore resting upon the parting of the hair in Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, whereas the tikka, a rounded pendant at the end of a long chain which falls on the forehead, is used throughout India. The shringar patti which frames the face and often connects with the tikka on the top and the earrings are also used widely. In earlier times men wore the kalgi, a plumed jewel, on top of the turban. Nose: The ornament worn all over India has variations from the simple lavang, clove, to phuli, the elaborately worked stud, or nath, the nose-ring worn in the right nostril, and the bulli, the nose ring worn in the centre just over the lips. Streedhan: From Vedic times onwards, jewellery was counted as a womanís wealth and comprised a part of her inheritance from her father, as well as a gift from her husband. Ornaments worn by a Bhartanatyam dancer 51 JEWELLERY Neck: One of the ornaments is the guluband, which is made up of either beads or rectangular pieces of metal, strung together with the help of threads. A ribbon is attached at the back to protect the neck of the wearer. Then there is the longer kanthi or the bajaithi. Below this is worn either a silver chain or a necklace of beads. The men would wear a charm or a tawiz at the neck and a kantha, a long necklace. Fingers: For the hands there are a number of rings. On festive occasions women wear the hathphool or ratthan-chowk to decorate the back of the hand. Wrists: For the wrists there is the kada, the paunchi, the gajra and the chuda, which quite often extends six inches above the wrist. Arms: The bazoo, the joshan, and the bank are worn above the elbow. Men wore a heavy kada or bangle. Hips: A series of silver chains formed into a belt are worn at the hips and are generally known as kandora or kardhani, while the men would wear a silver or gold belt. Ankles: Solid, heavy metal anklets combine with the delicately worked paizebs ending in tinkling, silver, hollow bells, while men would wear a heavy silver anklet. Only royalty wore gold on their feet. Toes: The bichhua, scorpion ring, for the toe is put on by women at the time of their marriage. Jewellery for various parts of the body Page 4 All of us enjoy decorating our bodies. In ancient times it was believed that besides enhancing its beauty, decorating the body gave it additional strength and power. Even today many tribal societies use flowers, wild berries, leaves and feathers for this purpose. Flowers and fruits celebrate nature and growth while feathers are valued for their colour and for the power of flight. Seeds, even wings of insects such as colourful beetle wings are used as embellishment and decoration. One of the oldest forms used in jewellery was that of a sphere, representing the seed, the bija. Later a range of beads were made from clay, glass, metals and precious stones. This symbolised fertility, growth and the origin of life. Many jewellery forms made in metal reproduce forms of flowers and fruits. Champakali is a necklace made of jasmine bud motifs and is worn throughout India. Karanphul jhumka is a combination of the form of an open lotus at the ear lobe and a suspended half open bud. Mangai mala is a rich necklace from Tamil Nadu, with stylised mango forms studded with rubies. Precious metals such as gold and silver were for the rich while the less affluent used even brass and white metal. Gold was associated with the sun, and silver, chandi, with chandrama ó the moon. In the past when there was discrimination on the basis of caste, only the upper castes were allowed to wear gold. This is now changing and those who can afford it, wear gold and precious jewels. 5 JEWELLERY Strings made of different types of seeds 50 LIVING CRAFT TRADITIONS OF INDIA Meaning and Significance of Jewellery In some tribal societies, each ornament was a symbol of the rank and status of the wearer, and it was also believed to have certain magical powers. Thus, the purpose of ornamentation was not only to satisfy an instinctive desire to decorate the body, it was also invested with symbolic significance. This aspect is clearly expressed in the form of amulets which carry inscribed prayers to protect the wearer from evil influences. All communities and faiths use this form of jewellery as protection against harm or to activate certain positive qualities. It was with the establishment of a settled agrarian society that jewellery became a form of saving and a symbol of status. A variety of designs in folk jewellery evolved over the years, and the important position of the jeweller in village society also points to the fact that jewellery was considered as the only form of investment which could be encashed during an emergency. It was mandatory for married women to wear jewellery. Necklace, earrings, head ornaments and bangles were essential for every married woman. It was only widows who were deprived of jewellery. Jewellery for Every Part of the Body Each region in India has a particular style of jewellery that is quite distinct. Differences occur even as one goes from one village to another. Despite the variety in jewellery patterns in different parts of the country, the designs in each region are also at times strikingly similar. Head and Forehead: Women wear the bore resting upon the parting of the hair in Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, whereas the tikka, a rounded pendant at the end of a long chain which falls on the forehead, is used throughout India. The shringar patti which frames the face and often connects with the tikka on the top and the earrings are also used widely. In earlier times men wore the kalgi, a plumed jewel, on top of the turban. Nose: The ornament worn all over India has variations from the simple lavang, clove, to phuli, the elaborately worked stud, or nath, the nose-ring worn in the right nostril, and the bulli, the nose ring worn in the centre just over the lips. Streedhan: From Vedic times onwards, jewellery was counted as a womanís wealth and comprised a part of her inheritance from her father, as well as a gift from her husband. Ornaments worn by a Bhartanatyam dancer 51 JEWELLERY Neck: One of the ornaments is the guluband, which is made up of either beads or rectangular pieces of metal, strung together with the help of threads. A ribbon is attached at the back to protect the neck of the wearer. Then there is the longer kanthi or the bajaithi. Below this is worn either a silver chain or a necklace of beads. The men would wear a charm or a tawiz at the neck and a kantha, a long necklace. Fingers: For the hands there are a number of rings. On festive occasions women wear the hathphool or ratthan-chowk to decorate the back of the hand. Wrists: For the wrists there is the kada, the paunchi, the gajra and the chuda, which quite often extends six inches above the wrist. Arms: The bazoo, the joshan, and the bank are worn above the elbow. Men wore a heavy kada or bangle. Hips: A series of silver chains formed into a belt are worn at the hips and are generally known as kandora or kardhani, while the men would wear a silver or gold belt. Ankles: Solid, heavy metal anklets combine with the delicately worked paizebs ending in tinkling, silver, hollow bells, while men would wear a heavy silver anklet. Only royalty wore gold on their feet. Toes: The bichhua, scorpion ring, for the toe is put on by women at the time of their marriage. Jewellery for various parts of the body 52 LIVING CRAFT TRADITIONS OF INDIA Jewellery through the Ages 3000ñ1500 BCE Harappan Period India has an unbroken tradition of over five thousand years of jewellery making. The excavations at the Harappan site have uncovered beads and shell bangles. The shell bangles are exactly similar to the ones worn by married women in Ladakh. Gold sheets shaped into head bands were also found. 300 BCEñ300 CE The richest collection of jewellery was discovered in Taxila, an important Buddhist centre of learning. It was on the trade route, as well as the road for migration of people entering India. Here the jewellery exhibits Greek influence and the introduction of new technology such as filigree and granulation. It is interesting to observe, however, that there are marked similarities between our present-day jewellery designs and the jewellery of the Sumerians and the early Greeks. A necklace excavated at Ur, which is made up of finely designed pendants of lion-heads with granulated work, and supposed to have belonged to Queen Bathsheba, has a remarkable likeness to the garuda necklace prepared in Kerala. Early Greek jewellery has a close similarity with some of the traditional jewellery of Kutch and Saurashtra. The patterns of some Egyptian jewellery, especially armlets with snakeheads, are found in India, as well. 400 CE There is a close similarity in the jewellery design of today with those of early times. This we know from descriptions in literature, and in the depiction of jewellery in sculpture and painting. Page 5 All of us enjoy decorating our bodies. In ancient times it was believed that besides enhancing its beauty, decorating the body gave it additional strength and power. Even today many tribal societies use flowers, wild berries, leaves and feathers for this purpose. Flowers and fruits celebrate nature and growth while feathers are valued for their colour and for the power of flight. Seeds, even wings of insects such as colourful beetle wings are used as embellishment and decoration. One of the oldest forms used in jewellery was that of a sphere, representing the seed, the bija. Later a range of beads were made from clay, glass, metals and precious stones. This symbolised fertility, growth and the origin of life. Many jewellery forms made in metal reproduce forms of flowers and fruits. Champakali is a necklace made of jasmine bud motifs and is worn throughout India. Karanphul jhumka is a combination of the form of an open lotus at the ear lobe and a suspended half open bud. Mangai mala is a rich necklace from Tamil Nadu, with stylised mango forms studded with rubies. Precious metals such as gold and silver were for the rich while the less affluent used even brass and white metal. Gold was associated with the sun, and silver, chandi, with chandrama ó the moon. In the past when there was discrimination on the basis of caste, only the upper castes were allowed to wear gold. This is now changing and those who can afford it, wear gold and precious jewels. 5 JEWELLERY Strings made of different types of seeds 50 LIVING CRAFT TRADITIONS OF INDIA Meaning and Significance of Jewellery In some tribal societies, each ornament was a symbol of the rank and status of the wearer, and it was also believed to have certain magical powers. Thus, the purpose of ornamentation was not only to satisfy an instinctive desire to decorate the body, it was also invested with symbolic significance. This aspect is clearly expressed in the form of amulets which carry inscribed prayers to protect the wearer from evil influences. All communities and faiths use this form of jewellery as protection against harm or to activate certain positive qualities. It was with the establishment of a settled agrarian society that jewellery became a form of saving and a symbol of status. A variety of designs in folk jewellery evolved over the years, and the important position of the jeweller in village society also points to the fact that jewellery was considered as the only form of investment which could be encashed during an emergency. It was mandatory for married women to wear jewellery. Necklace, earrings, head ornaments and bangles were essential for every married woman. It was only widows who were deprived of jewellery. Jewellery for Every Part of the Body Each region in India has a particular style of jewellery that is quite distinct. Differences occur even as one goes from one village to another. Despite the variety in jewellery patterns in different parts of the country, the designs in each region are also at times strikingly similar. Head and Forehead: Women wear the bore resting upon the parting of the hair in Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, whereas the tikka, a rounded pendant at the end of a long chain which falls on the forehead, is used throughout India. The shringar patti which frames the face and often connects with the tikka on the top and the earrings are also used widely. In earlier times men wore the kalgi, a plumed jewel, on top of the turban. Nose: The ornament worn all over India has variations from the simple lavang, clove, to phuli, the elaborately worked stud, or nath, the nose-ring worn in the right nostril, and the bulli, the nose ring worn in the centre just over the lips. Streedhan: From Vedic times onwards, jewellery was counted as a womanís wealth and comprised a part of her inheritance from her father, as well as a gift from her husband. Ornaments worn by a Bhartanatyam dancer 51 JEWELLERY Neck: One of the ornaments is the guluband, which is made up of either beads or rectangular pieces of metal, strung together with the help of threads. A ribbon is attached at the back to protect the neck of the wearer. Then there is the longer kanthi or the bajaithi. Below this is worn either a silver chain or a necklace of beads. The men would wear a charm or a tawiz at the neck and a kantha, a long necklace. Fingers: For the hands there are a number of rings. On festive occasions women wear the hathphool or ratthan-chowk to decorate the back of the hand. Wrists: For the wrists there is the kada, the paunchi, the gajra and the chuda, which quite often extends six inches above the wrist. Arms: The bazoo, the joshan, and the bank are worn above the elbow. Men wore a heavy kada or bangle. Hips: A series of silver chains formed into a belt are worn at the hips and are generally known as kandora or kardhani, while the men would wear a silver or gold belt. Ankles: Solid, heavy metal anklets combine with the delicately worked paizebs ending in tinkling, silver, hollow bells, while men would wear a heavy silver anklet. Only royalty wore gold on their feet. Toes: The bichhua, scorpion ring, for the toe is put on by women at the time of their marriage. Jewellery for various parts of the body 52 LIVING CRAFT TRADITIONS OF INDIA Jewellery through the Ages 3000ñ1500 BCE Harappan Period India has an unbroken tradition of over five thousand years of jewellery making. The excavations at the Harappan site have uncovered beads and shell bangles. The shell bangles are exactly similar to the ones worn by married women in Ladakh. Gold sheets shaped into head bands were also found. 300 BCEñ300 CE The richest collection of jewellery was discovered in Taxila, an important Buddhist centre of learning. It was on the trade route, as well as the road for migration of people entering India. Here the jewellery exhibits Greek influence and the introduction of new technology such as filigree and granulation. It is interesting to observe, however, that there are marked similarities between our present-day jewellery designs and the jewellery of the Sumerians and the early Greeks. A necklace excavated at Ur, which is made up of finely designed pendants of lion-heads with granulated work, and supposed to have belonged to Queen Bathsheba, has a remarkable likeness to the garuda necklace prepared in Kerala. Early Greek jewellery has a close similarity with some of the traditional jewellery of Kutch and Saurashtra. The patterns of some Egyptian jewellery, especially armlets with snakeheads, are found in India, as well. 400 CE There is a close similarity in the jewellery design of today with those of early times. This we know from descriptions in literature, and in the depiction of jewellery in sculpture and painting. 53 JEWELLERY The kanthi, a necklace worn close to the neck and the phalakhara, a long necklace comprising a number of tablets strung with a series of beads, is seen in the early Gupta period and is found in use even today in most parts of North India. The chudamani, shaped like a full-blown lotus with many petals, was worn at the parting of the hair and is similar to the present day bore of Rajasthan. In the Ramayana, there is mention of Sita wearing a nishka necklace. Nishka, a gold coin, is also referred to in the Jataka stories. The tradition of wearing of coin necklaces continues. 900 CE The use of the nose ornament was introduced into India quite late, as the early sculptures and murals do not show nose ornaments. It appears to have been introduced by the Arabs after the tenth century and, over the years, it became common all over India and became associated with marriage. 1500ñ1900 The Mughals had fine jewellery and used large precious stones. Jahangirís treasury, described by Sir Thomas Roe, an English traveller, had 37.5 kilograms of diamonds and 3000 kilograms of pearls and rich jewellery, often colourful enamel jewellery embedded with precious stones. 1900 onwards With body piercing becoming popular in the West, young Indian men and women have begun piercing not just the nose and ear, but their tongue, the navel and other parts of the body to wear jewellery. About 26 per cent of Indiaís exports comprise gems and jewels.Read More
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