Electronics and Communication Engineering (ECE) Exam > Electronics and Communication Engineering (ECE) Videos > Drones for Beginners: How to make Arduino Drones > Basic Quadcopter Tutorial - Chapter 5 - Soldering Tips
Basic Quadcopter Tutorial - Chapter 5 - Soldering Tips Video Lecture | Drones for Beginners: How to make Arduino Drones - Electronics and Communication Engineering (ECE)
FAQs on Basic Quadcopter Tutorial - Chapter 5 - Soldering Tips Video Lecture - Drones for Beginners: How to make Arduino Drones - Electronics and Communication Engineering (ECE)
| 1. What is soldering and why is it important in quadcopter assembly? |  |
Ans. Soldering is the process of joining two or more electronic components together using a molten metal alloy called solder. It is important in quadcopter assembly because it ensures reliable electrical connections between the various components, such as the motors, flight controller, and ESCs. Without proper soldering, the quadcopter may experience intermittent electrical connections, leading to erratic behavior or even failure during flight.
| 2. What type of solder should I use for quadcopter assembly? | |
Ans. For quadcopter assembly, it is recommended to use lead-free rosin-core solder with a diameter of 0.032 inches (0.8mm). This type of solder is commonly used in electronics and provides good electrical conductivity. The rosin core helps to remove oxidation and impurities from the solder joint, ensuring a reliable connection.
| 3. How do I prepare the soldering iron for use? | |
Ans. To prepare the soldering iron, first, make sure it is clean and free from any debris or oxidation. Then, plug it into a power source and allow it to heat up to the desired temperature, typically around 350-400 degrees Celsius (660-750 degrees Fahrenheit) for quadcopter assembly. Use a damp sponge or brass wire sponge to clean the soldering iron tip before and during use to ensure good solder flow and minimize oxidation.
| 4. What are some common soldering mistakes to avoid? | |
Ans. Some common soldering mistakes to avoid in quadcopter assembly include:
- Applying too much heat for too long, which can damage sensitive components.
- Using too little solder, resulting in weak or unreliable connections.
- Creating solder bridges or shorts between adjacent pins or pads.
- Not properly securing the components during soldering, leading to misaligned or loose connections.
- Using excessive force when soldering, which can damage the circuit board or components.
| 5. How can I improve my soldering skills for quadcopter assembly? | |
Ans. To improve your soldering skills for quadcopter assembly, consider the following tips:
- Practice on scrap or unused circuit boards to gain experience and confidence.
- Use a soldering iron with adjustable temperature control to optimize heat for different components.
- Ensure good lighting and a stable work surface.
- Use a magnifying glass or a helping hand tool to aid in precise soldering.
- Watch tutorials or seek guidance from experienced hobbyists to learn proper soldering techniques.
Text Transcript from Video
okay so now I want to give you guys a
little bit of a tutorial and
during and I know most of you know how
to saw already but if you're just
getting started this will hopefully be
very helpful for soldering you're going
to want to use good solder this is
Kester it's a very good solder it's
about forty dollars a roll then you're
going to need a soldering iron of course
now you can go get an inexpensive one
like a pen type when you're soldering
very large gauge wire and bullet
connectors and the kinds of things that
you're going to be soldering when you
build your quadcopter you're going to
need a lot of power so I suggest that
you get a good soldering iron this is a
Weller WT CPT it's one of the most
common ones out there ten gauge wire
like this that extra copper in the wire
acts as a heat sink drawing the heat
away from what you're trying to solder
so it becomes very difficult if you
don't have enough power in your
soldering iron this Weller has enough
power so that even when you're soldering
and it's and it's touching a heatsink
and drawing the heat away this will keep
the temperature up to 800 degrees so we
can keep keep soldering and heat the
entire end of the wire up okay another
very important little tool that you can
get yourself is a pair of helping hands
they have a magnifying glass that helps
sometimes then these two little
alligator clips allow you to hold the
wiring connector because they're going
to get very hot and if you try to hold
one end you're never going to get a good
solder connection it's going to be
moving around and you'll end up with a
cold solder joint I'm going to show you
just some of the basic connections that
we make and we'll start with just a
bullet connector so I've got let's see
we'll use a plush 25 amp I've got the
three wires that are going to go to the
brushless motor and remember this is
going to be the hot end so I'm going to
need to attach a female bullet connector
and that's one of these guys right here
and it has a deep end and a shallow end
the shallow end is where the wire goes
okay so now I've got my help
and I'm going to put the wire what's
important to understand is that what
conducts the heat is the surface area so
it's usually good to have a little bit
of solder on the iron and then apply it
to the wire get some more solder on
there that's when the smoke starts and
even if your solder is $40 a roll don't
put it on lightly
put a lot on now
here's another reason you have the
safety glasses on you one trick I have
is I heat it up and then I flick the
wire down so don't do this on your
dining room table you're going to make a
mess but I want to get you know the big
blob of solder off so I've got my wire
tent and now I'm going to take my bullet
connector and you notice there's two
holes there's a tiny hole and they're
all a little different but there's a
tiny hole here on this one and that is
basically just to let air out of the
connector part I guess and then there's
a bigger hole on the shallow cup and
that's to help you get the solder in to
the connector I put that on the other
side of my helping hands I can't tell
you how much these helping hands help
make really good connections and then
I'm going to put my now tinned wire in
as straight as I can to the connector
you notice there isn't a lot of extra
wire shown here don't strip off a whole
bunch I've only got maybe two eighths of
an inch here then I put the soldering
iron in that little hole and give it a
little solder and just wait
heat is your friend when you're
soldering what you don't want to do is
paint solder on to a connection so I'm
letting it wick in on its own and then
once a littles in there I'll actually go
on the back of the connector here until
that cup is filled with solder now it
I've got the solder in there it's melted
why am i keeping the soldering
I want the whole thing to heat up I want
the whole connection the wire and the
bullet connector to heat up so I have a
really good solder connection then
you're going to have to let it cool down
for a second
you
okay so now when you're making a power
harness or wiring harness eventually
you're going to have connections to each
one of your es CS
and you're going to have four wires
coming from Dean connectors each one of
these Dean connectors there aren't
actually dean connectors on this this is
just an example but these are the
negative leads going to some Dean's
connectors and those would connect to
the es CS then you're stuck with four
really big wires on the other side that
need to connect to a battery wire right
this is this is a difficult solder joint
to make I'm going to show you a little
trick that I use first let's go ahead
and tend these wires so I'm going to
strip each one about a quarter of an
inch now I've got my four I'm going to
twist these up a little bit
one nice tight bundles and then my
battery wire which is also only about a
quarter of an inch now I'm going to tin
these I'll show you how this is a bit
harder to tin than the small ESC wires
let's get it a little bit better angle
alright so I'm going to get this started
a little bit of solder on my soldering
iron put it on the wire watch a little
TV it's going to take a minute you got
to let this sucker heat up I'm gonna add
some more solder
it's going to begin to wick into the
wire
it's a big solder mess when you do this
you see it's starting to wick in this is
a big bubble of solder on the bottom
here but that's alright you also want to
wick in from the end
and that's pretty good now here's my
little trick do a little flick some of
it already fell off but that'll get all
the extra I'm gonna go ahead and tend
the other ones okay now here's the trick
I've got four conductors here and I I
need to take these four wires and
connect it to this wire to make my
wiring harness here's what I do I grab
some single strand wire I strip off a
bunch so I'm left with just and I know
it's difficult to see but I'm left with
just the conductor I'm gonna strip off a
little bit more here and then I'm going
to take just that piece and make a loop
and then cross it I'm going to put this
wire loop and my hemostats I think
that's what they're called I'm not that
kind of doctor
so okay then I line up all my conductors
so I've got a nice square like this
and I put the loop over still get the
hemostats on there and I take my fourth
conductor and I put it right in the
center and can it be a little frustrated
you got to get it all in there now if
you're trying to do this with wires that
are hot with a soldering iron in your
hand it's it's a mess and it's very hard
to do and you're going to burn yourself
so that's what this trick is all about
this trick is about holding the wires in
position as you solder it because I've
got so much conductor in here so much
heatsink and you can see what I'm doing
here I'm twisting this and making it
tighter and then I'm going to snip off
okay so it should look like this
notice this loop wires about halfway up
the tinned part of the wire and it's
pretty uniform you know ideally I want
the battery wire the long one to be
right in the center but this isn't
soldered yet and I can I can handle it I
can move it around so it makes it a lot
easier to to solder so now and I can
begin to heat it up
in there it's starting to wick in to the
wire hopefully you can see that it looks
like a big blob of solder on top and it
wicks in I'm going to quickly turn it it
doesn't cool down too much it'll dull
over just a little bit and that's the
finished product I want to cut this off
it's also very important you don't have
any sharp ends you notice it's pretty
good all the way around I don't have any
sharp bends and then you want to take a
big piece of heat shrink and put it over
this whole big mess now this is kind of
hot right now so I can't do that let's
pause for a second all right so it's
cooled down a little bit still pretty
warm actually but I'm going to go ahead
and put it over quickly and then use the
heat gun
and that's the finished product and this
these would we go into each ESC and then
this side would go to the battery I have
two of those one for negative one for
positive but that's all you really need
for a wire harness you can use separates
connectors in here I don't I don't like
to use too many connectors if possible I
don't even typically use them on the esc
side but it does make it easier if you
want to if you need to switch out ESC s
little bit of a tutorial and
during and I know most of you know how
to saw already but if you're just
getting started this will hopefully be
very helpful for soldering you're going
to want to use good solder this is
Kester it's a very good solder it's
about forty dollars a roll then you're
going to need a soldering iron of course
now you can go get an inexpensive one
like a pen type when you're soldering
very large gauge wire and bullet
connectors and the kinds of things that
you're going to be soldering when you
build your quadcopter you're going to
need a lot of power so I suggest that
you get a good soldering iron this is a
Weller WT CPT it's one of the most
common ones out there ten gauge wire
like this that extra copper in the wire
acts as a heat sink drawing the heat
away from what you're trying to solder
so it becomes very difficult if you
don't have enough power in your
soldering iron this Weller has enough
power so that even when you're soldering
and it's and it's touching a heatsink
and drawing the heat away this will keep
the temperature up to 800 degrees so we
can keep keep soldering and heat the
entire end of the wire up okay another
very important little tool that you can
get yourself is a pair of helping hands
they have a magnifying glass that helps
sometimes then these two little
alligator clips allow you to hold the
wiring connector because they're going
to get very hot and if you try to hold
one end you're never going to get a good
solder connection it's going to be
moving around and you'll end up with a
cold solder joint I'm going to show you
just some of the basic connections that
we make and we'll start with just a
bullet connector so I've got let's see
we'll use a plush 25 amp I've got the
three wires that are going to go to the
brushless motor and remember this is
going to be the hot end so I'm going to
need to attach a female bullet connector
and that's one of these guys right here
and it has a deep end and a shallow end
the shallow end is where the wire goes
okay so now I've got my help
and I'm going to put the wire what's
important to understand is that what
conducts the heat is the surface area so
it's usually good to have a little bit
of solder on the iron and then apply it
to the wire get some more solder on
there that's when the smoke starts and
even if your solder is $40 a roll don't
put it on lightly
put a lot on now
here's another reason you have the
safety glasses on you one trick I have
is I heat it up and then I flick the
wire down so don't do this on your
dining room table you're going to make a
mess but I want to get you know the big
blob of solder off so I've got my wire
tent and now I'm going to take my bullet
connector and you notice there's two
holes there's a tiny hole and they're
all a little different but there's a
tiny hole here on this one and that is
basically just to let air out of the
connector part I guess and then there's
a bigger hole on the shallow cup and
that's to help you get the solder in to
the connector I put that on the other
side of my helping hands I can't tell
you how much these helping hands help
make really good connections and then
I'm going to put my now tinned wire in
as straight as I can to the connector
you notice there isn't a lot of extra
wire shown here don't strip off a whole
bunch I've only got maybe two eighths of
an inch here then I put the soldering
iron in that little hole and give it a
little solder and just wait
heat is your friend when you're
soldering what you don't want to do is
paint solder on to a connection so I'm
letting it wick in on its own and then
once a littles in there I'll actually go
on the back of the connector here until
that cup is filled with solder now it
I've got the solder in there it's melted
why am i keeping the soldering
I want the whole thing to heat up I want
the whole connection the wire and the
bullet connector to heat up so I have a
really good solder connection then
you're going to have to let it cool down
for a second
you
okay so now when you're making a power
harness or wiring harness eventually
you're going to have connections to each
one of your es CS
and you're going to have four wires
coming from Dean connectors each one of
these Dean connectors there aren't
actually dean connectors on this this is
just an example but these are the
negative leads going to some Dean's
connectors and those would connect to
the es CS then you're stuck with four
really big wires on the other side that
need to connect to a battery wire right
this is this is a difficult solder joint
to make I'm going to show you a little
trick that I use first let's go ahead
and tend these wires so I'm going to
strip each one about a quarter of an
inch now I've got my four I'm going to
twist these up a little bit
one nice tight bundles and then my
battery wire which is also only about a
quarter of an inch now I'm going to tin
these I'll show you how this is a bit
harder to tin than the small ESC wires
let's get it a little bit better angle
alright so I'm going to get this started
a little bit of solder on my soldering
iron put it on the wire watch a little
TV it's going to take a minute you got
to let this sucker heat up I'm gonna add
some more solder
it's going to begin to wick into the
wire
it's a big solder mess when you do this
you see it's starting to wick in this is
a big bubble of solder on the bottom
here but that's alright you also want to
wick in from the end
and that's pretty good now here's my
little trick do a little flick some of
it already fell off but that'll get all
the extra I'm gonna go ahead and tend
the other ones okay now here's the trick
I've got four conductors here and I I
need to take these four wires and
connect it to this wire to make my
wiring harness here's what I do I grab
some single strand wire I strip off a
bunch so I'm left with just and I know
it's difficult to see but I'm left with
just the conductor I'm gonna strip off a
little bit more here and then I'm going
to take just that piece and make a loop
and then cross it I'm going to put this
wire loop and my hemostats I think
that's what they're called I'm not that
kind of doctor
so okay then I line up all my conductors
so I've got a nice square like this
and I put the loop over still get the
hemostats on there and I take my fourth
conductor and I put it right in the
center and can it be a little frustrated
you got to get it all in there now if
you're trying to do this with wires that
are hot with a soldering iron in your
hand it's it's a mess and it's very hard
to do and you're going to burn yourself
so that's what this trick is all about
this trick is about holding the wires in
position as you solder it because I've
got so much conductor in here so much
heatsink and you can see what I'm doing
here I'm twisting this and making it
tighter and then I'm going to snip off
okay so it should look like this
notice this loop wires about halfway up
the tinned part of the wire and it's
pretty uniform you know ideally I want
the battery wire the long one to be
right in the center but this isn't
soldered yet and I can I can handle it I
can move it around so it makes it a lot
easier to to solder so now and I can
begin to heat it up
in there it's starting to wick in to the
wire hopefully you can see that it looks
like a big blob of solder on top and it
wicks in I'm going to quickly turn it it
doesn't cool down too much it'll dull
over just a little bit and that's the
finished product I want to cut this off
it's also very important you don't have
any sharp ends you notice it's pretty
good all the way around I don't have any
sharp bends and then you want to take a
big piece of heat shrink and put it over
this whole big mess now this is kind of
hot right now so I can't do that let's
pause for a second all right so it's
cooled down a little bit still pretty
warm actually but I'm going to go ahead
and put it over quickly and then use the
heat gun
and that's the finished product and this
these would we go into each ESC and then
this side would go to the battery I have
two of those one for negative one for
positive but that's all you really need
for a wire harness you can use separates
connectors in here I don't I don't like
to use too many connectors if possible I
don't even typically use them on the esc
side but it does make it easier if you
want to if you need to switch out ESC s
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