3D Printing 101 - Jargon Busting! - 2015 Video Lecture | What is 3D Printing: Basic Knowledge - IT & Software

to the terms abs juice hot end and feet
eager confused you will be confused no
longer as we dragon bust common 3d
printing terms in this 3d printing 101
as a going guys anchors here from makers
Muse so as a newbie coming to 3d
printing you it may be somewhat confused
by all the terms that you have to learn
many of which have been coined by the 3d
printing community and you won't
actually hear anywhere else
but what do they all mean hot end this
is the business end of your FDM 3d
printer where the molten plastic is
extruded out and laid down onto your
print bed a hot end has a heater block
usually an aluminium block with a high
current resistor and a sensor to
regulate the temperature and your nozzle
which has a tiny hole in the end for
plastic to come out in a controlled
manner this plastic may be fed via a
director of an extruder which simply
means the motor pushing it is on the
head itself or via a Bojan extruder
meaning the extruder motor is mounted on
the printers chassis instead and forces
the filament through a long tube towards
the hot end it's important to note that
in a Bowden design the plastic still
only melts in the hot end just the same
as direct driven so how does this
plastic get forced through your hot end
with your extruder gear also known as a
feeder or filament drive gear this is
what bites onto the filament and forces
it forward as it rotates so unless your
3d printer is fairly unusual it probably
uses what's called Stefan motors to
drive the axes and extruder these motors
are called Stefan motors as there can be
precisely controlled in what's known as
steps making them perfect for accurate
control movements on the cheap so once a
3d printer is home meaning all axes are
moved to a homing end stop or limits
which machine needs to keep the stepper
motors powered on it all times even when
the machine is not moving this means the
motors can sometimes get quite hot and
they consume quite a bit of power if a
stepper motor is forced out of position
machine will need to rehome this is
because Stefan motors don't have any
method of positional feedback they are
dumb or open-loop in that regard some
higher end machines and I do mean quite
a fair bit higher end may have encoders
which do provide this positional
feedback and can detect if a collision
or misalignment occurs now backtracking
a little what on earth is an axis anyway
a 3d printer has three dimensions hence
3d printer they're known as X Y & Z or Z
for your Americans X is usually side to
side Y is usually
back in front although it can depend on
the machines configuration but Z is
always height I could go into this
deeper but it's a topic for it's very
own videos so let's move on heated bed
or hot bed pretty simple it means the
service you're printing on will warm up
this is critical for many plastics and a
big deciding factor between lower-cost
machines which don't have this feature
on a side note which is quite related
this is a add on board for the up mini
it's the up mini bed plus which I'll be
reviewing in a future video which
supposedly lets you print far bigger
prints on the up mini without warping so
stay tuned for that if you're interested
most heated beds can get up to 100
degrees C or more so be careful not to
burn yourself on them or your hot end
and the printing platform is also known
as the build plate timing belts and
pulleys these are what make your machine
able to move the timing comes from tiny
teeth along the belt preventing slipping
this is critical to allow control
reference from your step motors to be
translated to your printhead timing
belts are a very low cost solution for
this throw and I do have some play or
what's known as backlash which is
unwanted free movement for this reason
many 3d printers are like to use Acme
nuts and screws or even what's known as
ball screws for the z-axis which
provides much higher precision then the
belts can allow so how do you know what
type your printer has well if you turn
it off mid print and the Z just Falls
instantly its belt it doesn't move at
all it's probably Acme screws and if it
does fall slowly and gracefully you're
very lucky
and you're lucky enough to have low
friction ball screws which are by far
the best solution but also by far the
most expensive and then we have ABS
juice so ABS juice is a concoction of
ABS dissolved into acetone you can use
this to massively improve adhesion on
your print bed as yessuh turn will
evaporate leaving a very thin film of
ABS behind be very careful though not to
get this on your skin or anything for
that matter and also be careful with a
fumes from the acetone but it does make
a very good glue as well for sticking
ABS prints together definitely a term
coined specifically for the 3d printing
market ABS juice don't drink it filament
this is what you print with it comes in
a roll it looks like oversize with a
sniffer wire and the most common types
or flavors are 1.75 mill or 3 mill also
2.85 tends to be interchangeably use of
3 ml just to confuse things a little bit
more you can also get different types of
plastics abs or PLA are the most popular
if you're interested to know the
difference between those two plastics
definitely check out my other video in
the link above heated bill chamber this
is different to a heated build plate and
of higher-end printers will enclose the
print area to keep the heat in this will
generally improve your print quality and
limits warping which can occur when the
print calls too quickly this chamber may
be passively heated through heat off the
belt bed an extruder or may be actively
heated with an additional heat source
the very high-end FDM machines like the
Stratasys you print Fordyce and those
machines will have an actively heated
build oven which is the ultimate version
of this technique which means you can
print parts which pretty much have no
warping at all it's pretty phenomenal
but it's very expensive so what is
warping anyway well when a 3d printer
starts to curl lift up or otherwise fail
horribly this is known as warping
warping is caused when a plastic will
cool too fast and non-uniformly and as
it cools it shrinks and therefore you
get warping and then there's sag which
is the opposite to warping when a part
calls too slowly and starts to droop
down due to gravity or otherwise look
fairly terrible this can be a big
problem with PLA when it's extruded at
too high of a temperature or the chamber
is too hot but yeah just watch out for
that and if you having that trouble just
call it quicker raft a cute little
platform you can print under your object
this helps with part adhesion to your
print bed is quite useful if your
printer has lots of Nick's scratches or
an uneven surface you don't want to be
reproduced into your print it does tend
to waste a lot of plastic and adds more
time to your print though raft 'less
pretty self-explanatory printing with no
raft printing with no raft or rocklers
is directly on to your print bed it can
be trickier to dial in then with a raft
but it means the bottom surface of your
print will look really good if you get
it right you can get pretty much a
mirror finish if you're printing
straight onto a glass bed raffle Asit
can look really good PTFE tube also
known as Teflon is simply a very low
friction tube commonly used to help
guide filament from your filament roll
on to your extruder head that's
basically all it is it's very cheap on
eBay definitely worthwhile getting some
build envelope this is the maximum
printing volume your machine is capable
of usually listed in XY and z
coordinates for example the flashforge
streamer is 230 by 150 by 140
millimeters and I think that'll do it
for this episode of 3d printing 101 I
haven't even touched on file or 3d print
preparation jargon they'll be coming in
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