Print Faster using Multiple Processes in Simplify3D - 3D Printing 101 Video Lecture | What is 3D Printing: Basic Knowledge - IT & Software

in today's treaty printing 101 I'm going
to show you how you can shape hours of
your 3d printing time by using multiple
processes within simplify 3d if you've
never used multiple processes into the
facility or you're new to the software
this is a must watch video let's get
started
[Music]
hi welcome back to 20 putting 101 here
on makers muse guys this is a beginner's
guide to multiple processes within
simplify 3d so if you've never used them
before this is going to be a great video
to start so what I have here is a file
from my buddy Garrett over at Kaos
called tech he designed the Thor hammer
and made it 3d printable in multiple
parts and he has the hammer part sliced
in two so you can join together
afterwards now he has two versions
because he's a very good modeler and
offers you those options one is a hollow
version which you can print facedown and
this version which is solid and you can
see he has a base and which you print
this way up to get more details but this
is a large object as you can see in my
current process I have the one house
selected and 15 percent infill
percentage and point two millimeter
layer height so if I was to print this
it's going to take some time we're
looking at 15 hours or almost 16 hours
print time and I am running at 60
millimeters per second on the extruder
however once I told you you could shave
five hours or more of this print without
losing any strength or detail well you
can using multiple processors let me
show you how this is the exact same
model except I have multiple processors
and if I was to print this it's like
awesome it's going to look pretty much
the same and it's going to take nine
hours 52 minutes it's essentially saving
five hours of print time for the same
model and don't get we're going to need
two of these so in the end you save 10
hours of printing time which is pretty
impressive considering that you're not
going to see any difference how did I do
it well I use multiple processes to set
different infill amounts let's use GTO
preview in simplicity layer by layer to
show you what I've done now let's press
play I'm going to start building the
model with some infill here and what
I've done is I've given it a 50% infill
up to a certain height and then it's
going to use that infill to build a bit
of support for that backing part it's
going to cap it off that's going to
start building at a very low install
vintage
this is where we save our time it's got
a sort of 2% install which just gives it
enough strength without having to waste
plastic or time and then as this builds
up it goes back
to a denser infill using my last process
to support the overhangs and then it
will slowly build up detail and then
eventually fill it in to the top of the
hammer
this means the top of a hammer won't
droop in it will be very strong but
we're not wasting plastic and we're
saving a lot of time by having a lower
infill inside the model what I've also
done is change my layer height most of
the model is actually sliced at 0.3
millimeter layer height which is fine if
you don't have any detail but here at
the top we do so I've made that point
two millimeter layer height and in your
case you might even want to go even
finer you could at the top at point one
if you have some very fine details you
do want to resolve without making the
whole model take forever at point one
millimetre layer height so to achieve
this effect I use multiple processes and
made them start and stop at different
heights but how do you know where you
want to start and stop well luckily
simplify 2d does have a built in tool
just for that
simply go to view and cross-section or
you can hit control key on your keyboard
so what this will let you do is your a
cross-section of your model and you can
get the exact point at where you might
want to add a different process so here
I can change the height and go up like
this and I can see the model slowly
builds up to the top here so what I
notice at the bottom here is it has this
sort of key which keys it into the other
part of a hammer and also this overhang
here that I do want to be fairly strong
as well looking into the handle so what
I want to do is probably build up to
where this shelf is you can see here
where the Shelf starts I probably want
to have it pretty strong up to that
point so I can enter a number here it
looks like it starts with about 30 maybe
31 so it looks like I want to have a
fairly decent infill up to 31
millimeters in the model so I can close
that double-click our process and what I
usually do to make sure I remember is
I'll enter the height that the protest
goes through so I'll enter here 0 to 31
and under layer I am going to give it a
point 3 millimeter layer height and in
focus edit I'll leave it at 15% I think
that
a decent amount of infill for this model
and nozzles iona 0.5 yes I am printing
on the lens house flexi on with 0.5
millimeter nozzle that's all fine but
the most important setting to change is
under the Advanced tab and that's where
you can change our layer modifications
start printing at a certain height and
stop printing at a certain height so we
want to start printing at 0 obviously so
don't take that box but we want to stop
printing at 31 millimeters and that's
hit okay so let's see how that looks
it's going to prepare to print and this
is what it would look it's going to stop
at 31 and you can see here that we have
a nice amount of in Seoul so it's going
to be nice and strong for adding those
connections now you notice I do have an
infill here and you might be thinking
why do you need that it's going to
continue printing internally true it
doesn't actually need it but if I turn
infill off for the top layers on this
first process it will actually not fill
in this part here so I do need it on and
it will add more strength anyway so
that's fine so let's see how high the
second process needs to go again view
cross-section and let's zoom up here to
see what we got
so it looks like up to 80 is how high we
probably should go maybe let's go with
70 let's go to 79 so it looks like 79 is
there how high we can get away with a
very sparse infill before we need to go
back to a denser infill to finish the
print so I'm going to go at 79 that
looks good to me so to make a new
process just do control C selecting the
current process and control V copy/paste
and this process we're going to call it
31 to 79 and with this process we're
going to change your into a percentage
down to let's say 3% actually make it
really really sparse just enough to
support the next denser infill at the
top but that's about it
but we can also change is under layer we
can turn top and bottom solid layers off
which means it's just going to do infill
we don't have to worry about it printing
a solid layer for top and bottom when
we're not actually going to see it so we
can turn those off 0.3 again so it's
nice and coarse and advanced against
it's important we're actually going to
start it as we said at 31 so where the
other one left off and we're going to
stop at 79
too easy all right let's see how that
looks let's go to prepare to print and
this is important we want to select all
and then okay this is what we've got so
far we've got this nice spark infill and
then we've got this dense real for
infill for the base of the model where
we need more strength and then it goes
up like that and stops just below where
we're going to add a denture install
again exit preview and for this last
part we don't actually need to use a
cross-section analysis tool anymore
because it's going to go till the the
part finished so ctrl C again copy paste
and this one is going to be called 79
plus goes to the end of the model so
we're going to change a couple of things
here we're going to change the in field
to be quite dense again but also going
to change our layer height so we get
more detail so let's go to layer and I'm
going to make it point to as I said you
could change us to any number you want
if you want to take more time to get
more detail but point two should be fine
for this model it's quite large and
under the infill we want to change this
again and I'm going to make it back to
15 so you can slide it or you can also
enter a number here 15 and finally this
is really important don't forget to
change it we're going under the Advanced
tab again we're going to start and stop
but it's time we're starting at 79 and
we let it continue so we don't need to
enter it when it stops and there's one
last thing we do need to change for our
final process and that is the top solid
layer we did turn them off before for
our middle slice because we don't need
it but for this one we do need it
otherwise the top will be open and
you'll just see the raw infill so top
soil layers three that should be nice
and solid so everything's complete we'll
select all and then okay and here we
have it it starts with a dense infill
for strength and it's going to cap it
off and do our sparse infill and the
majority of the part is this fast
infield saving time and plastic then we
have dense infill kicking and again
support the finer detail we've got at
the top of the hammer with the 0.2
millimeter layer Heights and it's dish
it off with a nice infill at the top and
three Solars layers capping it off
nicely
and that's our part so it's going to
take roughly five hours less than it
would normally and you're not going to
see really any visible difference it's
going to look pretty much the same it
might weigh a bit less because we're
using less plastic but apart from that
you can save yourself time and money by
using multiple processes but there's one
more trick I want to show you and even
if you've been using simple fight relief
for a long time you might not know about
this and it's called grouping which you
can do two models and processes so what
I'm going to do is select all my
processes holding that shift then go to
edit and group selection so grouped
processes are extremely powerful because
what you can do is you can tweak things
on just one process and it will carry
through to all the other processes in
that group this is fantastic for dialing
in your temperatures because for example
you might have sliced a different
temperature for the different profiles
you think I got to go through all of
them again to manually change them well
no you don't actually have to do that I
can go to this one process the
temperature and say okay my primary
extruder 220 is actually a bit hot for
my 3d printer I'm printing PLA for
example I might want 190 let's change it
to that and maybe the heated bed 60 is a
bit much that changes to 45 save a bit
of energy and hit OK and then if you go
through the other processes you'll
notice they've all changed to suit it's
also important to note with grouped
processes that if you have values that
are different when you group them they
won't link which is handy because for
our last process we have a different
layer height we have 0.2 millimeter
layer height but for the other processes
we have 0.3 so because these values were
different before we group them they're
not going to change universally like the
other ones to just remember anything
that was the same before you grouped
will stay the same in a group process
but anything that was different
whilst a different so I hope this video
helps you save time and money with your
3d printing as you saw just a single
model you can shave off five or more
hours from a 3d print just by doing some
clever tricks using multiple processes
and if you're doing a production run of
prints spending the time to dial in
multiple processes for a print can
actually save you days of printing down
the end it's actually really really
powerful at sowing I've been using
myself for quite a while a big thanks to
the facility for sponsoring this episode
of 3d printing one I want on makers news
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[Music]