SHUTTER SPEED: Master it to get the SHARPEST; CLEANEST Pictures Video Lecture | Capture like a Pro: Digital Photography Tutorial - Professional Skills

or shutter speed it's not as simple as
you might think
right I mean at first you learned how to
freeze motion but there's much more to
it than that you can use it artistically
you can use it to enhance your photo it
can be a key part of storytelling
showing or freezing motion can make or
break a picture and things like the
reciprocal rule which were invented in
the film era don't necessarily apply
anymore so we have some new rules that
we hope people use instead first let's
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slash Tony we're going to be talking
about how and when to apply shutter
speed but not which buttons to push on
your camera yeah if you're looking for
how to actually dial it in on your
camera then you can go to FTP to I of
flash tutorials and search your model of
camera we have some overviews
specifically for you or a model of
camera similar to yours and you can
learn how to actually dial it in and use
the buttons let's talk about all the
reasons you might want to use a slow
shutter speed right because sometimes
you do write and specifically you'll use
it to show action and we have examples
here so I we review your photos every
week on our live show and a common thing
that I see is people are so focused on
freezing motion that they forget
sometimes you need motion to show that
there's movement and makes a picture
more interesting so
this is an example of that in Cuba we
were showing pictures of the cars and we
wanted to show some panning to show some
movement and make the background less
distracting
whenever I see a car picture I tell
people to get those wheels spinning
otherwise it looks like the car is just
parked nutri shot at one one thousandth
of a second you would just see a still
car you'd have no idea that it's moving
one thirtieth of a second the background
is blurred the wheels are spinning a
little bit we'll talk about which exact
shutter speed you should use and how
you'll figure that out in just a second
some things are really fast like a
hummingbird those wings move so fast
that even at one five hundredth of a
second the wings aren't frozen which is
OK
it's good right showing some motion here
it's not just a little bird suspended in
air frozen which could be okay too
stylistically but here it shows some
movement I think it makes more
interesting and the whole bird is moving
but the wings are moving more than the
head of the birds to the head seem sharp
while the wings seem blurry music this
is one of the like a concert is filled
with action right don't just freeze
there like an energy yeah there's no
standing there hopefully there'd be a
bad concert if they just kind of stood
there but here you can see that the
musician Sean his face is frozen and
sharp but his hand is strumming and not
just adds a little bit of interest and
movement and life to the picture and
that's the art of the shutter speed it's
finding that one where his face is sharp
but his hand is moving just enough and
it's not always going to be the same
slow jazz concert you're gonna have to
go with like 1/4 of a second because
they don't move as fast he be crazy you
know here's an example at one one
sixtieth I pretty much froze the sticks
of this drummer but he was crazy and he
was fun he was moving all around and I
wanted to show it doesn't convey at all
no to 125th and I got those sticks
moving and you can see his face is a
little bit you know it has a little bit
of motion blur you can keep shooting
until you get that perfect photo where
their faces frozen sticks are moving or
you can leave it if you just want to
show overall motion that's the trade-off
right you want to show motion but
sometimes you'll end up with just a
blurry picture for some other reasons
yeah as you go slower and slower the
percentage of shots that turn out sharp
begins to drop right so you offset that
by
more and more pictures yeah you do that
and you figure out what that perfect
shutter speed is by just experimenting
you take some pictures and we'll give
you some starting points and then you
review them and if there's not enough
motion guess what you cut that shutter
speed in half you go slower and slower
if there's too much motion you're not
getting any pictures that are mostly
sharp then you might have to go up and
increase your shutter speed and go even
faster put your camera in shutter
priority auto ISO and let the camera
take care of everything except the
shutter speed I tend to start at a
higher shutter speed and work down yeah
I'd been a higher shutter speed to like
get you'll guarantee you get something
we tell this is why because I don't want
the moment to be lost and then the whole
picture is blurry if it's more fleeting
so we'll start at a higher shutter speed
and know that I'm at least capturing
something and then kind of get more
artistic with it I want to show some
movement but you have to decide on
location you have to take a moment in
chimp with your pictures because you
will know if the drummer if he's moving
a stand really fast or a little bit slow
it's going to depend on your focal
length how close you are what the angle
of view is yeah there's so much to it
another good reason to think about your
shutter speed and choose it manually
rather than letting the camera choose it
is because you want to smooth the
movement of things like water and clouds
and provide an ethereal look here's a
waterfall at a fairly slow shutter speed
one tenth of a second but you can see
that it still captures that action some
of the force of the water is still there
for better or worse whether that's what
you want or not is an artistic choice go
slower at a second and a half and you
can see now the water looks much better
they wear the soft air go even slower
this is Chelsea this is your shot at a
full eight seconds and this isn't what
we saw with their eyes at all we saw
lots of little water droplets pouring
off the back of the whale tail but with
a long shutter speed at night it became
really soft and almost kind of magical
in heavenly yeah it's not realistic but
that's the story that you decided to
tell a little more of a romantic story
well it changes the composition of a
photo as well so a long shutter
bate can be a composition a
compositional element because it can
take it from a few trickles of water to
a line in a photo
yeah and that's something you have to
you can't see with your eye so you have
to learn to imagine it you see these
water droplets coming off that tail and
know that in the final picture it's
going to be an extension of that tail
going all the way to 30 seconds a really
long shutter speed everything becomes
super super foggy almost because the
mist flying off the water now has its
own presence in the image and this
wide-angle shot the clouds themselves
have moved during that course of 30
seconds so instead of being a puffy
cloud it becomes a smooth line almost
like a fog in the sky drastically
changing the image from what we actually
saw but creating a vision that might be
a little more artistic
that's the choice of the photographer
that's the role of the photographer
that's what the camera can't make an
automatic mode for you right it's an
artistic choice and of course those long
exposures you can't hold the camera
still for 30 seconds you need a steady
tripod another reason to use a long
shutter speed is too obscure movement
that from-from moving subjects that
might otherwise overpower your frame or
overpower your picture this is Shibuya
station in Tokyo that they call the
busiest intersection in the world where
literally thousands of people move
across the street every time the little
walk sign turns green and if all of
those people were still if they were all
in focus and sharp that would be really
distracting they would also appear to be
frozen like mannequins but at a
half-second that's enough to show all
these people it moved their movement and
almost make them kind of ghostly yeah it
allows you to take in the overall
intersection more yeah and it also tells
the story of the intersection where two
people are moving through it there's a
lot of different people you don't focus
on any individual it's more about the
crowd so you're taking a picture that
would have been a big frozen crowd and
you're turning it into the movement of
the people in the environment and it
tells the story of this location I'll
use this technique at a crowded Monument
you know if you're at I think we were in
Washington and the monument was just
covered in people but I wanted it to be
more about
the monuments and the people will do a
long exposure and just get all of those
people moving out yeah because they are
moving because they become a little bit
blurry they're less interesting to the
eye yeah looking at the picture doesn't
look at them but they look at everything
else yeah and that's what this picture
does at a two-second shutter speed you
see that there are people there and you
see that they're walking under the
Brooklyn Bridge but it's still very much
about the Brooklyn Bridge now a picture
like this presented a technical
challenge because at 2 seconds there's
no way I could have set the camera to
take a two-second exposure in broad
daylight it would have been overexposed
so I had to put a neutral density filter
on the camera to allow me to take that a
slow shutter speed we do have another
video that shows you kind of a free
alternative you can use if you don't if
you forgot to bring your ND filter or if
you don't want to buy an ND filter that
can provide very similar results a long
shutter speed can also be used for light
painting pretty popular pretty trendy
yeah we've-- light painting you take
some sort of light source and move it
through the frame while the shutter is
open and we cover this in chapter 10 of
stunning digital photography and this
was done with a pixel stick which is
just one long row of pixels LED lights
yeah yeah and we had it configured like
a rainbow you can do other things with
it but we just moved it gradually
through the frame and it made this like
long kind of crazy-looking ribbon over
the course of 10 seconds and with light
painting you often don't know how long
you're going to be painting for so
sometimes I'll just lock the shutter
open do the painting and then release
the shutter because you don't know if
it's going to if it's going to take you
five seconds or 30 seconds so you just
leave it open as long as necessary and
then you can adjust the brightness of it
later we did this photo was a 30 second
exposure now did we set off but if we
turn on a flashlight to light you up
every once in a while as you move
through the frame yeah this is me just
me but I hear three different times in
the frame because you were there with a
flashlight and I was in the back and you
lit me up with a flashlight and then you
turn the flashlight off and I step
forward and you let me up again and I
step forward and you let me up again the
shutter speed was key here because I
could not have done that in one
thirtieth of a second I couldn't move to
three different spots but 30 seconds was
plenty of
time for me to move to three different
spots unlike myself equally in all three
places it's pretty spooky it is spooky
cars become long trails of lights at
night when you leave the shutter open
for a long period of time headlights are
white brake lights tend to be red and
when you work along work with long
shutter speeds a lot you eventually
begin to see those cars in your mind not
as individual cars but as long lines
that you can use as compositional
elements yeah and I see this use
sometimes there are pictures and they
want to do night photography they want a
night shot and there's a beautiful
winding road and photographers well
accentuate that by waiting for a car to
come and drive through the frame and
accentuate the lines in the photo
you ever get crafty think of all the
different ways to use that long shutter
speed steel wool taking it to minutes
light up still will slow down or whisk
and just spin it in circles we cover
this in chapter 10 as well as some
safety guidelines there you have to be
careful with it but you can see you can
create really cool effects with long
shutter speeds things that you're I
could never see the pictures interesting
because you don't see this because it's
impossible to take in something like
this your camera can see it but your I
cannot same with this example I did it
with a simple two dollar classic
flashlight
yeah and just moved it around we have a
whole video that shows you how to do
that and it took me about two minutes to
get it done makes it look like fire if
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before they were our sponsor because I
like that Neil deGrasse Tyson video
there's things about physics a lot of
science off yeah so professor seth
freeman he has 24 videos about the best
way to negotiate a deal something that
any photographer i think could learn
because you have to often negotiate
prices or negotiate contracts or even
negotiate your way
into a photoshoot in the first place so
I have these videos in my watch list we
have everything from negotiating
creatively to even cross-cultural
negotiations that will be good if you're
trying to negotiate some deals in
another country but there's plenty on
there there's one for learning how to do
chess which I'll probably be using so I
can give you a whole bunch of stuff so
if you're interested in learning about
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watch that Neil deGrasse Tyson won both
I like that one
there's a link in the description down
below you don't feel like typing let's
talk about motion blur because along
with choosing your shutter speed
deliberatively to make create an effect
you can pick up these kind of negative
side effects and motion blur is the
negative side effect of using a long
shutter speed with motion blur the
subject is actually moving and this is a
picture taken at 30 seconds and you can
see the lighthouse there is nice and
sharp but the moon itself was moving
enough that it became weird looking all
elongated yeah moved pretty quickly on
the horizon especially you see it yeah I
was getting motion blur with the moon at
like a quarter of a second a sixteenth
of a second especially with a telephoto
lens it moves really very fast not
something people think about we had to
do some image stacking to get a clear
shot that you wanted yeah which we have
another video on if you go search our
videos you can see we have a video on
image stacking one thirtieth of a second
was not enough to freeze the motion of
this deer you can see it's motion blur
in that camera shake because the
background itself is nice and sharp but
the deer is chewing something yeah so
its mouth is moving but that'd ruin the
picture it was a desirable motion yeah
that's a good thing to take note of
because we get a lot of messages by
something wrong with my camera there's
something wrong with my lens
nothing's in focus and sometimes it's
here if your shutter speed and sometimes
it's motion blur so seeing these little
differences the background sharp the
foreground is moving it's going to help
you troubleshoot yeah this picture looks
out of focus but
is in focus it's just a combination of
the subject having motion burglar in the
background having background blur yeah I
took the picture of an osprey well first
of all he was perched so my shutter
speed is very slow it was a dark day and
I wanted it to be a clean photo but when
he took off I still had that slow
shutter speed 1 250th and so it was not
enough to freeze the bird unfortunately
because it happens all the time it have
been a cold shot because you want that
slow shutter speed when the subject is
still yeah they're perched but then as
soon as they start moving you need to be
at 1 mm of a second well so when I'm
shooting while if I go into shutter
priority because then I just have to
scoot my dial there and go a little bit
faster so that wasn't quite fast enough
in this one but sometimes you don't have
time to actually pick one mm of a second
I just literally just like roll my
fingers off something higher because it
can happen in an instant it's not just
wild like me it's sports too if you're
taking a picture of a batter at first
base you probably want to go a little
the motion of the bat in there but then
as soon as they start running to first
base you want to be able to freeze the
action of them running because you need
a faster shutter speed to freeze -
freeze them while they're running then
you do when they're just standing still
and batting and shutter priority is
perfect for that it sounds intimidating
but there's some muscle memory involved
so you'll get to know your camera and
you'll get to know the appropriate
shutter speed you got this another
negative side effect of using slow
shutter genie is camera shy always
happens to me I'm shaky like a cold
shower you're very stable only from
years and years of practice no your your
body doesn't move like mine like even
sitting here yeah off of my heart
doesn't beep you are a robot this is the
same deer as before at 1/32 same shutter
speed but in this one it's showing
camera shake because maybe there were
just shaking hands I like it the
difference is the background is moving
and the subject itself is moving this is
that motion blur picture you can see the
difference and that's important to know
when you look at your own picture then
you're figuring out what went wrong I
know why it makes me laugh if it's
camera shake you might be able to solve
the problem with image stabilization or
a tripod or a monopod or better
hand-holding techniques
motion blur we all you could dealing way
to fix that is to stop the subject
removing moving and you're just out dere
instead yes get creative if you can't
understand shutter speed but you can
solve them both by using a higher
shutter speed yeah of course but yeah
camera shake can be solved with a tripod
generally the heavier tripod the better
yeah especially with night photography
if a wind kicks up you don't want to
have your your tripod blowing around
there are caveats of that if you're say
on a pier like a floating dock yeah
that's going to move even though it
seems solid Oh
or even just a wood deck yes you're
running around you you sometimes you
might think why is the shaky what's
going on I've had people walk near my
tripod on an unstable surface or a wind
blow or vibrations if there's a third
vibrations on the surface that could be
an engine running nearby you start to
pick up on all the movements in the
world when you're trying to take a long
shot like that yeah I won't I can't take
macro photography on the second floor of
our house because I just discovered we'd
be using like close-up shots and the
high megapixel 50 megapixel sensor the
shakiness of somebody walking in another
room is enough to move it just a little
bit so I need to be like on the ground
floor of the basement it makes that big
of a difference and yet I see people
using a tripod on the deck of a boat
sometimes that's not going to help both
they're moving too much you're better
off just trying to handhold it just come
about
seriously set up their whole tripod okay
so imagine you falling like I'm melting
from a Simpson to me like haha you're
dumb at tripod okay image stabilization
this one helps the shaky folks like me
quite a lot especially now because
they're doing in camera image
stabilization and that's a beautiful
thing yes sensor stabilization works
with any type of lens mostly just have
it built in and I have a really hard
time using the lens that's not
stabilized we've been spoiled by
technologies so use something like the
Canon 24 to 70 f28 which is incredibly
sharp but it lacks image stabilization
and when you get it right or using a
tripod
it'll be so sharp
then you miss so many shots because even
if you're at one sixtieth of a second or
one 125th of a second you'll still see a
little bit of camera shaking like every
shot it seems like yeah image
stabilization can just be so helpful and
so important now and I know that it's
going to tick off the purists that we
love image stabilization but sorry all
right and of course you can always just
use a higher shutter speed right that in
itself comes with negative side effects
there's a cost right the consequences
high noise the graininess that you see
in your image and if you use try to use
a really fast shutter speed all the time
noise will wreck your picture aside from
not being artistic you're going to get a
lot of noise yeah a lot of that
sometimes I'll forget and I'll leave the
camera at a higher shutter speed and
I'll go and I'll shoot or slow slow
moving subject like this chickadee and I
could have shot this at one 125th
probably but I accidentally shot at 180
thousand look at the noise
the camera had to shoot at ISO ul
thousand eight hundred over estimated
that tickety yeah he was not moving
nearly that fast if you use a high
shutter speed the camera will have to
use a higher ISO and that introduces a
lot of ugly noise into your picture so
you're always trying to use the lowest
shutter speed you can so you can get
your camera at that base ISO which
usually iso 100 or ISO 200 depends on
the camera to get nice clean images so
how do you know tell see what shutter
speed you should use you know we're
talking about some new technology like
image stabilization so this isn't going
to be exactly accurate but the
reciprocal rule is helpful and that's
one over your focal length so if you're
using a 500 millimeter lens you'll want
your shutter speed to at least be one
five hundredth of a second
here are some examples at 100 millimeter
lens one 150 millimeter lens one
fiftieth 25 millimeter lens Chelsea what
could it possibly be 125th and I will
say also it depends on the individual
because and image stabilization because
you can shoot at 100 millimetres is
probably like 180th I don't know how
pretty
good and I would need that one
hundredths of a second or faster I
wanted to address the reciprocal rule
because everybody knows about it but
really there have been so many
advancements in recent years that
vertical rules is out the window like I
can't take sharp shots at sharp 100
millimeter shots at 1/100 with our 5d SR
because it's too high of a megapixel
yeah because of the high megapixel I
know I need to use a faster shutter
speed other things that influence that
will change the reciprocal rule are the
crop factor of your camera if you have
you need to factor that into the
reciprocal rule if you're going to be
making a large print any little bits of
camera shake are going to be that much
more apparent in a big print so you
would need to factor in your final use
of it and if you have a really sharp
lens that will of unsharp lens with the
blurriness would hide a little bits of
motion blur camera shake whereas the
sharp lens will really draw your eye to
that flaw so the reciprocal rule doesn't
it's kind of impossible to follow in the
modern digital era Rocksmith right it's
a good starting to a starting point but
you can still rek you shots with the
reciprocal rule or you can break it
sometimes by five six nine you break it
like I've never seen here's how I do it
I use the rule of doubles I start out
with the reciprocal roll one over the
focal length and I take one picture and
then I double that I go from one 100th
of a second to one 50th of a second and
then I take two shots and then I double
that I go to 125th of a second and I
take four pictures and then I'll double
it again one twelve eight pictures hey
your scientific on and on until I get
bored and then when I import my pictures
I go back to Lightroom and I start with
the slowest pictures because I know
those will have the lowest ISO and
they'll be the cleanest and I find the
first picture that's sharp so I don't
have to sort through all the pictures I
just start at the end and I picked the
sharpest one and sometimes I have to go
all the way back to the one that I
actually took at the reciprocal rule but
usually I find at least one picture that
sharp at a slower shutter speeds I know
I did better got a cleaner image at a
lower ISO than I would have otherwise
so just as an example of 50 millimeters
you might take one picture at 150th - at
125th and then four at 112 and then just
keep going until you run out of patience
I just worked the other way yeah but
there are diminishing returns as you get
slower you used slower and slower
shutter speeds some pictures are going
to turn out but most of them won't but
you just need to get one I also want to
give another tips for reducing camera
shake and that's don't jab your finger
on the shutter because just pushing the
shutter will cause your camera to twist
and that twisting is something that
image stabilization and in the lens at
least can't fix it can't counteract a
twisting motion so roll your finger on
the shutter and roll it off I'm going to
demonstrate but also take at least three
pictures and use continuous shutter so
you just roll it on click-click-click
and then roll it off and that second
picture that middle picture will be
sharper than the first of the last
picture because you will shake this or
twist the camera just a little bit when
you press and release it so those little
pictures are bound to be sharper to
demonstrate that this picture was taken
at 700 millimeters and then cropped to
more like 1500 millimeters one twentieth
of a second handheld you amaze me I took
a lot of pictures I took more than a
hundred pictures to get this this is the
teeny little hummingbirds like it would
easily fit in the palm of your hand yeah
but you can do that and if you look at
the picture you'll see it's nice nice
and clean now there is a little bit of
motion blur and it swings here and
you'll find that when you're shooting
birds the branches of trees move that's
what actually limits me I could have
gone to one tenth except trees move very
slowly I've noticed that you have to
consider if it's a windy day even if
your bird is perched it might be moving
just because of the wind and the branch
moving freezing action yeah these are
reasons you might want to use a high
shutter speed there's that moon again
that you took at one thirtieth of a
second right at one 125th and see it's
it's nice and sharp but it meant that I
had to shoot
high ISO ISO 3200 and that introduced
more noise in the picture
so the diction not as clean but at least
that moon isn't blurry like it was at 30
seconds man 1 15 hundredths of a second
was enough to to freeze the motion of
all those seagulls if I gone slower
might have been okay but they would have
been blurry I would have shown that
motion maybe it would have even been
better but that's the choice I made
that's tell you what it missed a moment
potentially yeah I didn't I couldn't
make them do it over and over again they
were only there for a split second we
have no choice a nice here's a sports
picture it even faster shutter speed 116
hundredths of a second and shooting this
volleyball match I did the
experimentation thing I started out at
slower shutter speeds but I wasn't
getting any shots that were fast I was
finally happy with the motion at 116
hundredths of a second this Osprey
pulling a fish out of the water you can
see one two thousands of a second is
enough to mostly freeze the bird you can
see the wingtips still blurred a little
bit but the water droplets are frozen
the fish mostly is frozen
so only the fastest moving parts of the
bird show any motion and a 1/4
thousandth of a second even with a flash
it wasn't quite enough to freeze all the
water droplets here there's still a
little bit of motion but for the most
part it does convey as freezing the
action so again you just have to
experiment take some pictures review
them decide if you're happy with the
amount of motion shown and adjust your
shutter speed but give yourself the
opportunity to review your pictures
yeah and learn your gear and learn
yourself learn if you are more stable
than the reciprocal roller what you need
to do to get the shot that you want yeah
and the image stabilization of your
camera and/or lens you can vary a lot
some some lenses are only good for a
couple stops some are good for four
stops sometimes more another potentially
negative side effect of using fast
shutter speeds is flash sync problems so
every camera has a sync speed and
usually it's one two hundredth or one
250th of a second yeah and if you put a
flash that was designed to work with
your camera it'll talk back
fourth and they'll probably stop you
from choosing a faster shutter speed but
if you're using like studio lights that
might not be able to talk natively to
your camera you'll see flash sync
problems like this where the flash you
can see the flash didn't fire evenly so
one 8,000th of a second the camera was
that the shutter actually becomes a
narrow opening a little slit that moves
from basically the top of the frame or
the bottom of the frame to the top of
the frame yeah and when the flash fired
that slit was moving like right past
your chin here which is why everything
below it is black but then the flash
fired really bright and then just kind
of gradually fade it out which is why
the top of the frame here gets darker
and darker it's just a flash sync
problem and the only way to solve that
is to use a slower shutter speed or get
strobes that support high speed sync
some general guidelines for what shutter
speed you should start with okay so
portraits one thirtieth of a second to
one 250th of a second people aren't
going to be moving that much plus their
baby babies yes baby at one thirtieth of
a second you'll get some pictures where
people are their faces a little bit
blurry cuz they're twisting their head a
little bit
one 250th will stop most people who are
posing but will force you to use a
higher ISO adding more noise still
animals if you're Tony Northrup maybe
one twentieth of a second or one 250th
of a second maybe get a perched animal
or something frozen a fox or deer yeah
but again offset it by taking lots of
pictures flying birds depends what
they're doing if they're soaring that's
going to be different than them diving
depends on the bird but one one thousand
two one two thousandth of a second
should freeze the motion yeah if it's a
vulture and they're just soaring one
1000 seems to work well but you like you
try to get a songbird that's flying yeah
it's hard just to get in the frame but
then you might even need to be at one
for thousands or higher kid sports one
125th one 250th of a second you want to
show a little bit of motion you don't
want people going to kick a ball and
then they're just frozen it's good to
see a little movement
yeah like you want their foot moving and
kick the ball you don't want their whole
body to be blurry yes but as people get
older even in like high school and
middle school they start to move faster
and you have to kind of compensate for
that with your shutter speed so I tend
to start at a higher shutter speed just
a funny way to put it the humans tend to
get stuff I've noticed this about you
good job Tony but one of the few reasons
people shoot multiple minute exposures
is for star trails it's actually show
the motion of the stars as the Earth
rotates and just to give you a point of
reference this is a shot I took at three
minutes you can see they're moving
around the North Star and the stars are
not points but rather they're little
bitty lines and that's what you get at
about three minutes to go to 20 minutes
or so those lines just continue to get
longer and longer and longer and usually
the star trails the longer the better if
you can stand to run your camera for two
hours then the lines will be all that
much more striking check our video we
have a video on that to look at us
once again go to FTP to iOS flash
tutorial to actually learn how to dial
the settings into your individual camera
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wonderful thank you thanks for watching
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