Consider the following statement with reference to oceanic waves:1. Wa...
Answer:
Introduction:
Oceanic waves are a common phenomenon in the world's oceans. They are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the water surface. These waves can have a significant impact on various aspects of the marine environment, including coastal erosion, sediment transport, and the mixing of nutrients in the water column.
Explanation:
Statement 1: Waves are oscillatory movements that result in the rise and fall of the water surface.
This statement is correct. Waves are oscillatory movements that propagate through the water. As the energy from the wind is transferred to the water, the water surface rises and falls in a rhythmic pattern. This rise and fall of the water surface is what we perceive as waves.
Statement 2: The movement of each water particle in a wave is to and from in the vertical direction.
This statement is also correct. In a wave, the movement of water particles is primarily in a circular motion. As the wave passes, each water particle moves in an elliptical orbit, with the major axis of the ellipse being vertical. This means that the water particles move to and from in the vertical direction as the wave propagates.
Conclusion:
Both statements are correct. Waves are oscillatory movements that result in the rise and fall of the water surface, and the movement of each water particle in a wave is to and from in the vertical direction. These characteristics of oceanic waves are fundamental to understanding their behavior and the impact they have on the marine environment.
Consider the following statement with reference to oceanic waves:1. Wa...
- Waves are oscillatory movements that result in the rise and fall of the water surface. In fact, the movement of each water particle in a wave is circular. The movement of the waves is just like the wind blowing across a wheat field and causing wave-like ripples to roll across its surface. The wheat stalk returns to its original position after the passage of each wave of wind. Similarly, water also returns to its original position after transmitting a wave. Hence statement 1 is correct and 2 is not correct.
- The size and force of a sea wave depends on three factors:
- The velocity of the wind,
- The length of time the wind blows and
- The distance that the wind has travelled across the open sea. This is called a fetch.