Yojana Magazine May 2024 - 1 | Current Affairs & Hindu Analysis: Daily, Weekly & Monthly - UPSC PDF Download

 Page 1


May 2024 a develop Ment Monthly
Page 2


May 2024 a develop Ment Monthly
May 2024
A DEVELOPMENT MONTHLY Let noble thoughts come to us from all sides.
Rig Veda
www.publicationsdivision.nic.in @DPD_India I @YojanaJournal @publicationsdivision @dpd_india
In ThIs Issue
number of pages: 56
Details of the Sales Outlets of the Publications Division on Page 34
YOJANA is published in Assamese, Bengali, English, Gujarati, Hindi, Kannada, Malayalam, Marathi, Odia, 
Punjabi, Tamil, Telugu, and Urdu.
Since 1957
Chief editor 
Kulshrestha Kamal
editor 
shuchita chaturvedi
our representatives 
Ahmedabad: JS Patel, Bengaluru: Shahid T Komath, 
Bhubaneswar: Manoj Kumar Jali, Chennai: Sanjay 
Ghosh, Guwahati: Maruf Alam, Hyderabad: 
Krishna Vandana P , Jalandhar: Gagandeep Kaur 
Devgan, Kolkata: Sumita Chakraborty, Mumbai: 
Sangeeta Godbole, Thiruvananthapuram: Sudha S 
Namboothiry.
Joint Director, ProDuction 
D K C hruDhaIna Th c over Design
BInDu Verma
Yojana (English): Room No. 647, Soochna Bhawan, 
CGO Complex, Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110 003.  
E-mail (Editorial): sec-yojanaeng-moib@gov.in
YOJANA, a development monthly published since 
1957, is a theme-based journal providing in-depth 
analyses and views on socio-economic issues in 
the broader framework of government policies. 
Although published by the Ministry of Information 
and Broadcasting, YOJANA is not restricted to 
expressing the official point of view.
DIsCLaImer
l 	 The 	 vie ws 	 e xpre sse d 	 in 	 various 	 articles 	 are	
those 	 of 	 the 	 authors 	 and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 ne c essarily	
re flect 	 the 	 vie ws 	 of 	 the 	 Go vernme n t 	 or 	 the	
organisation/ s 	 the y 	 work 	 f or .
l Map s/flags 	 use d 	 in 	 the 	 article s 	 are 	 only 	 indic ative 	
and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 re flect 	 the 	 politic al 	 map 	 or 	 le gal	
re presen t ation 	 of 	 the 	 flag 	 of 	 India/an y 	 othe r	
c oun try .
l The 	 inf ographics/figure s 	 are 	 pro vide d 	 b y 	 the	
authors 	 through 	 the ir 	 re liable 	 sourc e s 	 and	
YOJANA 	 claims 	 no 	 re sponsibility 	 f or 	 the 	 same.
l Image s, 	 graphics 	 and 	 illus trations, 	 whe re ve r	
use d, 	 are 	 mos tly 	 sourc ed 	 from 	 go vernme n t	
channels 	 and 	 are 	 indic ative 	 in 	 nature .
l YOJANA 	does 	not 	o wn 	re sponsibility 	re garding	
the 	 c on t e n ts 	 of 	 the 	 adve rtise men ts. 	 The 	 re aders	
are 	 re que s t e d 	 t o 	 ve rify 	 the 	 claims 	 made 	 in 	 the	
adve rtise men ts 	 re garding 	 c ourse s, 	 c are e r -
guidanc e 	 book s 	 or 	 ins titutions.
l YOJANA doesn't 	 e ndorse 	 or 	 promot e 	 an y 	 brands	
or 	 privat e 	 e n titie s 	 prese n t ed 	 as 	 c ase 	 s tudie s 	 in 	 an y	 
of 	 the 	 article s.
suBsCrIPTIOn/GrIeV anCes
Email: pdjucir@gmail.com 
Phone: 011-24367453  
(Monday-Friday, 9:30 am- 6:00 pm)
Postal Address: Abhishek Chaturvedi, Editor, 
Journals Unit, Publications Division, Room No. 
779, Soochna Bhawan, CGO Complex, Lodhi 
Road, New Delhi-110 003.
Please	 not e	 that	 it	 will	 t ak e	 atleas t	 eigh t	 week s	 t o	
s t art	 your	 sub scrip tion.	 Kindly	 raise	 your	 queries/
grie vanc es	 about	 non	 rec eip t	 of	 the	 journals	 only	
aft er	this	period.
SUBSCRIPTION-RELATED DETAILS : Page 43
viBraNt WOrld OF Weaves 
reGiONal diversitY iN  
iNdiaN WeaviNG 
Rta Kapur Chishti cOllaBOratiON aNd  
crOss-cultural iNFlueNces 
Prof Usha Nehru Patel
iNdiaN Weaves PrOmOtiNG 
sustaiNaBilitY 
Lalit Kumar Gupta
exPlOriNG rare Weaves aNd 
textiles OF Gujarat 
Arohiben Patel
Khadi : the icON OF iNdiaN 
iNdePeNdeNce 
A Annamalai
7
15
23
27
31
37
35
43
49
53
Next issue : FOrts OF iNdia
uNiqueNess OF Khadi haNdlOOm PrOducts OF iNdia 
FrOm lOcal tO GlOBal 
Dr Pralok Gupta 
Pushpendra Rajput
dO YOu KNOW? 
Weaves OF WOveN FaBrics WeaviNG as a livelihOOd 
Malvika Halwasiya
Our BOOKs 
madhuBaNi PaiNtiNG 
iNdiaN cOstumes YOJANA
Volume-68
No. 05
Page 3


May 2024 a develop Ment Monthly
May 2024
A DEVELOPMENT MONTHLY Let noble thoughts come to us from all sides.
Rig Veda
www.publicationsdivision.nic.in @DPD_India I @YojanaJournal @publicationsdivision @dpd_india
In ThIs Issue
number of pages: 56
Details of the Sales Outlets of the Publications Division on Page 34
YOJANA is published in Assamese, Bengali, English, Gujarati, Hindi, Kannada, Malayalam, Marathi, Odia, 
Punjabi, Tamil, Telugu, and Urdu.
Since 1957
Chief editor 
Kulshrestha Kamal
editor 
shuchita chaturvedi
our representatives 
Ahmedabad: JS Patel, Bengaluru: Shahid T Komath, 
Bhubaneswar: Manoj Kumar Jali, Chennai: Sanjay 
Ghosh, Guwahati: Maruf Alam, Hyderabad: 
Krishna Vandana P , Jalandhar: Gagandeep Kaur 
Devgan, Kolkata: Sumita Chakraborty, Mumbai: 
Sangeeta Godbole, Thiruvananthapuram: Sudha S 
Namboothiry.
Joint Director, ProDuction 
D K C hruDhaIna Th c over Design
BInDu Verma
Yojana (English): Room No. 647, Soochna Bhawan, 
CGO Complex, Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110 003.  
E-mail (Editorial): sec-yojanaeng-moib@gov.in
YOJANA, a development monthly published since 
1957, is a theme-based journal providing in-depth 
analyses and views on socio-economic issues in 
the broader framework of government policies. 
Although published by the Ministry of Information 
and Broadcasting, YOJANA is not restricted to 
expressing the official point of view.
DIsCLaImer
l 	 The 	 vie ws 	 e xpre sse d 	 in 	 various 	 articles 	 are	
those 	 of 	 the 	 authors 	 and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 ne c essarily	
re flect 	 the 	 vie ws 	 of 	 the 	 Go vernme n t 	 or 	 the	
organisation/ s 	 the y 	 work 	 f or .
l Map s/flags 	 use d 	 in 	 the 	 article s 	 are 	 only 	 indic ative 	
and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 re flect 	 the 	 politic al 	 map 	 or 	 le gal	
re presen t ation 	 of 	 the 	 flag 	 of 	 India/an y 	 othe r	
c oun try .
l The 	 inf ographics/figure s 	 are 	 pro vide d 	 b y 	 the	
authors 	 through 	 the ir 	 re liable 	 sourc e s 	 and	
YOJANA 	 claims 	 no 	 re sponsibility 	 f or 	 the 	 same.
l Image s, 	 graphics 	 and 	 illus trations, 	 whe re ve r	
use d, 	 are 	 mos tly 	 sourc ed 	 from 	 go vernme n t	
channels 	 and 	 are 	 indic ative 	 in 	 nature .
l YOJANA 	does 	not 	o wn 	re sponsibility 	re garding	
the 	 c on t e n ts 	 of 	 the 	 adve rtise men ts. 	 The 	 re aders	
are 	 re que s t e d 	 t o 	 ve rify 	 the 	 claims 	 made 	 in 	 the	
adve rtise men ts 	 re garding 	 c ourse s, 	 c are e r -
guidanc e 	 book s 	 or 	 ins titutions.
l YOJANA doesn't 	 e ndorse 	 or 	 promot e 	 an y 	 brands	
or 	 privat e 	 e n titie s 	 prese n t ed 	 as 	 c ase 	 s tudie s 	 in 	 an y	 
of 	 the 	 article s.
suBsCrIPTIOn/GrIeV anCes
Email: pdjucir@gmail.com 
Phone: 011-24367453  
(Monday-Friday, 9:30 am- 6:00 pm)
Postal Address: Abhishek Chaturvedi, Editor, 
Journals Unit, Publications Division, Room No. 
779, Soochna Bhawan, CGO Complex, Lodhi 
Road, New Delhi-110 003.
Please	 not e	 that	 it	 will	 t ak e	 atleas t	 eigh t	 week s	 t o	
s t art	 your	 sub scrip tion.	 Kindly	 raise	 your	 queries/
grie vanc es	 about	 non	 rec eip t	 of	 the	 journals	 only	
aft er	this	period.
SUBSCRIPTION-RELATED DETAILS : Page 43
viBraNt WOrld OF Weaves 
reGiONal diversitY iN  
iNdiaN WeaviNG 
Rta Kapur Chishti cOllaBOratiON aNd  
crOss-cultural iNFlueNces 
Prof Usha Nehru Patel
iNdiaN Weaves PrOmOtiNG 
sustaiNaBilitY 
Lalit Kumar Gupta
exPlOriNG rare Weaves aNd 
textiles OF Gujarat 
Arohiben Patel
Khadi : the icON OF iNdiaN 
iNdePeNdeNce 
A Annamalai
7
15
23
27
31
37
35
43
49
53
Next issue : FOrts OF iNdia
uNiqueNess OF Khadi haNdlOOm PrOducts OF iNdia 
FrOm lOcal tO GlOBal 
Dr Pralok Gupta 
Pushpendra Rajput
dO YOu KNOW? 
Weaves OF WOveN FaBrics WeaviNG as a livelihOOd 
Malvika Halwasiya
Our BOOKs 
madhuBaNi PaiNtiNG 
iNdiaN cOstumes YOJANA
Volume-68
No. 05
5 May 2024
Threads of Tradition
Editorial
YOJANA
i
n the intricate weave of india’s cultural fabric, the handloom industry 
stands as a testament to the country’s rich heritage and artistic prowess. 
From the snow-clad valleys of Kashmir to the sun-bathed shores of 
Kanyakumari, india’s diverse landscape is adorned with a kaleidoscope of 
hand-woven treasures, each bearing the indelible mark of centuries-old 
traditions and craftsmanship. We seek to embark on a journey through the 
intricate threads of india’s handloom legacy, celebrating its unparalleled 
beauty and significance in the socio-economic milieu of the nation.
At the heart of india’s handloom heritage lies the profound legacy 
of its weavers, whose skilled hands have breathed life into some of the 
world’s most exquisite textiles. the handloom sector, ranked second 
only to agriculture in india’s unorganised sector, serves as a vital source 
of livelihood for over three million artisans across the country. From the 
detailed Pashmina shawls of Kashmir to the vibrant Bandhani sarees of gujarat, the handloom industry 
embodies the ethos of sustainable craftsmanship, rooted in tradition yet adaptable to modern sensibilities.
one cannot overlook the global recognition garnered by i ndian handloom products, which serve as 
ambassadors of the country’s cultural richness on the international stage. t hrough meticulous artisanship 
and unwavering dedication, indian weavers have carved a niche for themselves in the global market, 
with exports surpassing $300 million annually before the onset of the c ovid-19 pandemic. Despite facing 
challenges such as fluctuating market demands and competition from machine-made textiles, the resilience 
of india’s handloom sector remains unwavering, buoyed by initiatives aimed at enhancing international 
demand and promoting indigenous branding.
indeed, the story of indian handlooms is not just one of economic significance but also a narrative 
of cultural resilience and identity preservation. Across the length and breadth of the country, handloom 
clusters such as Bhujodi in Kutch, Ashavalli in Ahmedabad, and varanasi in uttar Pradesh serve as bastions 
of tradition, where age-old weaving techniques are passed down from generation to generation. t hese 
clusters not only sustain local economies but also foster a sense of community and cultural pride among 
their inhabitants.
As we immerse ourselves in the panorama of india’s handloom heritage, it’s crucial to acknowledge the 
collaborative efforts that have shaped its trajectory. various stakeholders, including government bodies, 
artisan communities, and industry players, have contributed to nurturing and elevating this cherished 
legacy. t hrough initiatives aimed at skill development, market access, and resource provision, a supportive 
ecosystem has emerged, fostering the growth and visibility of india’s handloom sector both domestically 
and internationally.
in the current edition of Yojana, we bring together insights from various subject experts and scholars, 
shedding light on the multifaceted dimensions of india’s handloom industry. t hrough scholarly discourse 
and informed analysis, we strive to unravel the fineprint of india’s weaving traditions and underscore their 
enduring relevance in an ever-evolving world. As we navigate the diverse weave of india’s handloom 
heritage, let us reaffirm our commitment to preserving and promoting this timeless legacy for generations 
to come. We are certain that the intricate storytelling in the articles to follow will inspire you to know your 
weaves and celebrate the rich legacy behind them.                                                                                                         ?
Page 4


May 2024 a develop Ment Monthly
May 2024
A DEVELOPMENT MONTHLY Let noble thoughts come to us from all sides.
Rig Veda
www.publicationsdivision.nic.in @DPD_India I @YojanaJournal @publicationsdivision @dpd_india
In ThIs Issue
number of pages: 56
Details of the Sales Outlets of the Publications Division on Page 34
YOJANA is published in Assamese, Bengali, English, Gujarati, Hindi, Kannada, Malayalam, Marathi, Odia, 
Punjabi, Tamil, Telugu, and Urdu.
Since 1957
Chief editor 
Kulshrestha Kamal
editor 
shuchita chaturvedi
our representatives 
Ahmedabad: JS Patel, Bengaluru: Shahid T Komath, 
Bhubaneswar: Manoj Kumar Jali, Chennai: Sanjay 
Ghosh, Guwahati: Maruf Alam, Hyderabad: 
Krishna Vandana P , Jalandhar: Gagandeep Kaur 
Devgan, Kolkata: Sumita Chakraborty, Mumbai: 
Sangeeta Godbole, Thiruvananthapuram: Sudha S 
Namboothiry.
Joint Director, ProDuction 
D K C hruDhaIna Th c over Design
BInDu Verma
Yojana (English): Room No. 647, Soochna Bhawan, 
CGO Complex, Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110 003.  
E-mail (Editorial): sec-yojanaeng-moib@gov.in
YOJANA, a development monthly published since 
1957, is a theme-based journal providing in-depth 
analyses and views on socio-economic issues in 
the broader framework of government policies. 
Although published by the Ministry of Information 
and Broadcasting, YOJANA is not restricted to 
expressing the official point of view.
DIsCLaImer
l 	 The 	 vie ws 	 e xpre sse d 	 in 	 various 	 articles 	 are	
those 	 of 	 the 	 authors 	 and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 ne c essarily	
re flect 	 the 	 vie ws 	 of 	 the 	 Go vernme n t 	 or 	 the	
organisation/ s 	 the y 	 work 	 f or .
l Map s/flags 	 use d 	 in 	 the 	 article s 	 are 	 only 	 indic ative 	
and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 re flect 	 the 	 politic al 	 map 	 or 	 le gal	
re presen t ation 	 of 	 the 	 flag 	 of 	 India/an y 	 othe r	
c oun try .
l The 	 inf ographics/figure s 	 are 	 pro vide d 	 b y 	 the	
authors 	 through 	 the ir 	 re liable 	 sourc e s 	 and	
YOJANA 	 claims 	 no 	 re sponsibility 	 f or 	 the 	 same.
l Image s, 	 graphics 	 and 	 illus trations, 	 whe re ve r	
use d, 	 are 	 mos tly 	 sourc ed 	 from 	 go vernme n t	
channels 	 and 	 are 	 indic ative 	 in 	 nature .
l YOJANA 	does 	not 	o wn 	re sponsibility 	re garding	
the 	 c on t e n ts 	 of 	 the 	 adve rtise men ts. 	 The 	 re aders	
are 	 re que s t e d 	 t o 	 ve rify 	 the 	 claims 	 made 	 in 	 the	
adve rtise men ts 	 re garding 	 c ourse s, 	 c are e r -
guidanc e 	 book s 	 or 	 ins titutions.
l YOJANA doesn't 	 e ndorse 	 or 	 promot e 	 an y 	 brands	
or 	 privat e 	 e n titie s 	 prese n t ed 	 as 	 c ase 	 s tudie s 	 in 	 an y	 
of 	 the 	 article s.
suBsCrIPTIOn/GrIeV anCes
Email: pdjucir@gmail.com 
Phone: 011-24367453  
(Monday-Friday, 9:30 am- 6:00 pm)
Postal Address: Abhishek Chaturvedi, Editor, 
Journals Unit, Publications Division, Room No. 
779, Soochna Bhawan, CGO Complex, Lodhi 
Road, New Delhi-110 003.
Please	 not e	 that	 it	 will	 t ak e	 atleas t	 eigh t	 week s	 t o	
s t art	 your	 sub scrip tion.	 Kindly	 raise	 your	 queries/
grie vanc es	 about	 non	 rec eip t	 of	 the	 journals	 only	
aft er	this	period.
SUBSCRIPTION-RELATED DETAILS : Page 43
viBraNt WOrld OF Weaves 
reGiONal diversitY iN  
iNdiaN WeaviNG 
Rta Kapur Chishti cOllaBOratiON aNd  
crOss-cultural iNFlueNces 
Prof Usha Nehru Patel
iNdiaN Weaves PrOmOtiNG 
sustaiNaBilitY 
Lalit Kumar Gupta
exPlOriNG rare Weaves aNd 
textiles OF Gujarat 
Arohiben Patel
Khadi : the icON OF iNdiaN 
iNdePeNdeNce 
A Annamalai
7
15
23
27
31
37
35
43
49
53
Next issue : FOrts OF iNdia
uNiqueNess OF Khadi haNdlOOm PrOducts OF iNdia 
FrOm lOcal tO GlOBal 
Dr Pralok Gupta 
Pushpendra Rajput
dO YOu KNOW? 
Weaves OF WOveN FaBrics WeaviNG as a livelihOOd 
Malvika Halwasiya
Our BOOKs 
madhuBaNi PaiNtiNG 
iNdiaN cOstumes YOJANA
Volume-68
No. 05
5 May 2024
Threads of Tradition
Editorial
YOJANA
i
n the intricate weave of india’s cultural fabric, the handloom industry 
stands as a testament to the country’s rich heritage and artistic prowess. 
From the snow-clad valleys of Kashmir to the sun-bathed shores of 
Kanyakumari, india’s diverse landscape is adorned with a kaleidoscope of 
hand-woven treasures, each bearing the indelible mark of centuries-old 
traditions and craftsmanship. We seek to embark on a journey through the 
intricate threads of india’s handloom legacy, celebrating its unparalleled 
beauty and significance in the socio-economic milieu of the nation.
At the heart of india’s handloom heritage lies the profound legacy 
of its weavers, whose skilled hands have breathed life into some of the 
world’s most exquisite textiles. the handloom sector, ranked second 
only to agriculture in india’s unorganised sector, serves as a vital source 
of livelihood for over three million artisans across the country. From the 
detailed Pashmina shawls of Kashmir to the vibrant Bandhani sarees of gujarat, the handloom industry 
embodies the ethos of sustainable craftsmanship, rooted in tradition yet adaptable to modern sensibilities.
one cannot overlook the global recognition garnered by i ndian handloom products, which serve as 
ambassadors of the country’s cultural richness on the international stage. t hrough meticulous artisanship 
and unwavering dedication, indian weavers have carved a niche for themselves in the global market, 
with exports surpassing $300 million annually before the onset of the c ovid-19 pandemic. Despite facing 
challenges such as fluctuating market demands and competition from machine-made textiles, the resilience 
of india’s handloom sector remains unwavering, buoyed by initiatives aimed at enhancing international 
demand and promoting indigenous branding.
indeed, the story of indian handlooms is not just one of economic significance but also a narrative 
of cultural resilience and identity preservation. Across the length and breadth of the country, handloom 
clusters such as Bhujodi in Kutch, Ashavalli in Ahmedabad, and varanasi in uttar Pradesh serve as bastions 
of tradition, where age-old weaving techniques are passed down from generation to generation. t hese 
clusters not only sustain local economies but also foster a sense of community and cultural pride among 
their inhabitants.
As we immerse ourselves in the panorama of india’s handloom heritage, it’s crucial to acknowledge the 
collaborative efforts that have shaped its trajectory. various stakeholders, including government bodies, 
artisan communities, and industry players, have contributed to nurturing and elevating this cherished 
legacy. t hrough initiatives aimed at skill development, market access, and resource provision, a supportive 
ecosystem has emerged, fostering the growth and visibility of india’s handloom sector both domestically 
and internationally.
in the current edition of Yojana, we bring together insights from various subject experts and scholars, 
shedding light on the multifaceted dimensions of india’s handloom industry. t hrough scholarly discourse 
and informed analysis, we strive to unravel the fineprint of india’s weaving traditions and underscore their 
enduring relevance in an ever-evolving world. As we navigate the diverse weave of india’s handloom 
heritage, let us reaffirm our commitment to preserving and promoting this timeless legacy for generations 
to come. We are certain that the intricate storytelling in the articles to follow will inspire you to know your 
weaves and celebrate the rich legacy behind them.                                                                                                         ?
7 May 2024
eavers, printers, and dyers 
represent a unique mathematically 
competent yet aesthetically tuned 
resource group in the villages, 
small towns, and big towns. Whereas the educated 
designer would be calculating fabric structure 
from the number of threads per centimetre, the 
weaver would offer calculations from the other 
end, translating hanks of yarn into fabric structures 
by weight. 
Beginning the journey through india in the 
deep southwest, predominantly ‘white’, state of 
Kerala. White was the predominant base colour 
in all parts of india before the advent of chemical 
dyes in the late 19
th
 century. not only because of 
the compulsion of a warm-to-hot climate but also 
W
because the limited availability and expense of 
natural dyes, white was also a traditional statement 
of purity, austerity, and restraint. t he aesthetics of 
white seem to cut across class and community in a 
range of ways, from weighty, strong drapes for the 
not-so-privileged to fine counts and even silks for 
the well-to-do. A wedding sari was often just kora 
(unbleached), unwashed, and sprinkled with haldi 
(turmeric) to mark the auspicious occasion.
chemical dyes and cheaper substitutes for 
zari (gold metallic yarn) inadvertently opened 
the door to social change, which had not found 
adequate expression till then. the extravagant 
use of colour and shiny surface embellishments 
we so commonly associate with india today is an 
expression of 20
th
-century freedom enhanced 
VIBRANT WORLD OF WEAVES 
REGIONAL DIVERSITY IN INDIAN WEAVING
rta KaPur chishti the author is a textile scholar, co-author and editor of the book, ‘Saris- tradition & Beyond’. email: rtakapurchishti@gmail.com
Page 5


May 2024 a develop Ment Monthly
May 2024
A DEVELOPMENT MONTHLY Let noble thoughts come to us from all sides.
Rig Veda
www.publicationsdivision.nic.in @DPD_India I @YojanaJournal @publicationsdivision @dpd_india
In ThIs Issue
number of pages: 56
Details of the Sales Outlets of the Publications Division on Page 34
YOJANA is published in Assamese, Bengali, English, Gujarati, Hindi, Kannada, Malayalam, Marathi, Odia, 
Punjabi, Tamil, Telugu, and Urdu.
Since 1957
Chief editor 
Kulshrestha Kamal
editor 
shuchita chaturvedi
our representatives 
Ahmedabad: JS Patel, Bengaluru: Shahid T Komath, 
Bhubaneswar: Manoj Kumar Jali, Chennai: Sanjay 
Ghosh, Guwahati: Maruf Alam, Hyderabad: 
Krishna Vandana P , Jalandhar: Gagandeep Kaur 
Devgan, Kolkata: Sumita Chakraborty, Mumbai: 
Sangeeta Godbole, Thiruvananthapuram: Sudha S 
Namboothiry.
Joint Director, ProDuction 
D K C hruDhaIna Th c over Design
BInDu Verma
Yojana (English): Room No. 647, Soochna Bhawan, 
CGO Complex, Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110 003.  
E-mail (Editorial): sec-yojanaeng-moib@gov.in
YOJANA, a development monthly published since 
1957, is a theme-based journal providing in-depth 
analyses and views on socio-economic issues in 
the broader framework of government policies. 
Although published by the Ministry of Information 
and Broadcasting, YOJANA is not restricted to 
expressing the official point of view.
DIsCLaImer
l 	 The 	 vie ws 	 e xpre sse d 	 in 	 various 	 articles 	 are	
those 	 of 	 the 	 authors 	 and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 ne c essarily	
re flect 	 the 	 vie ws 	 of 	 the 	 Go vernme n t 	 or 	 the	
organisation/ s 	 the y 	 work 	 f or .
l Map s/flags 	 use d 	 in 	 the 	 article s 	 are 	 only 	 indic ative 	
and 	 the y 	 do 	 not 	 re flect 	 the 	 politic al 	 map 	 or 	 le gal	
re presen t ation 	 of 	 the 	 flag 	 of 	 India/an y 	 othe r	
c oun try .
l The 	 inf ographics/figure s 	 are 	 pro vide d 	 b y 	 the	
authors 	 through 	 the ir 	 re liable 	 sourc e s 	 and	
YOJANA 	 claims 	 no 	 re sponsibility 	 f or 	 the 	 same.
l Image s, 	 graphics 	 and 	 illus trations, 	 whe re ve r	
use d, 	 are 	 mos tly 	 sourc ed 	 from 	 go vernme n t	
channels 	 and 	 are 	 indic ative 	 in 	 nature .
l YOJANA 	does 	not 	o wn 	re sponsibility 	re garding	
the 	 c on t e n ts 	 of 	 the 	 adve rtise men ts. 	 The 	 re aders	
are 	 re que s t e d 	 t o 	 ve rify 	 the 	 claims 	 made 	 in 	 the	
adve rtise men ts 	 re garding 	 c ourse s, 	 c are e r -
guidanc e 	 book s 	 or 	 ins titutions.
l YOJANA doesn't 	 e ndorse 	 or 	 promot e 	 an y 	 brands	
or 	 privat e 	 e n titie s 	 prese n t ed 	 as 	 c ase 	 s tudie s 	 in 	 an y	 
of 	 the 	 article s.
suBsCrIPTIOn/GrIeV anCes
Email: pdjucir@gmail.com 
Phone: 011-24367453  
(Monday-Friday, 9:30 am- 6:00 pm)
Postal Address: Abhishek Chaturvedi, Editor, 
Journals Unit, Publications Division, Room No. 
779, Soochna Bhawan, CGO Complex, Lodhi 
Road, New Delhi-110 003.
Please	 not e	 that	 it	 will	 t ak e	 atleas t	 eigh t	 week s	 t o	
s t art	 your	 sub scrip tion.	 Kindly	 raise	 your	 queries/
grie vanc es	 about	 non	 rec eip t	 of	 the	 journals	 only	
aft er	this	period.
SUBSCRIPTION-RELATED DETAILS : Page 43
viBraNt WOrld OF Weaves 
reGiONal diversitY iN  
iNdiaN WeaviNG 
Rta Kapur Chishti cOllaBOratiON aNd  
crOss-cultural iNFlueNces 
Prof Usha Nehru Patel
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Volume-68
No. 05
5 May 2024
Threads of Tradition
Editorial
YOJANA
i
n the intricate weave of india’s cultural fabric, the handloom industry 
stands as a testament to the country’s rich heritage and artistic prowess. 
From the snow-clad valleys of Kashmir to the sun-bathed shores of 
Kanyakumari, india’s diverse landscape is adorned with a kaleidoscope of 
hand-woven treasures, each bearing the indelible mark of centuries-old 
traditions and craftsmanship. We seek to embark on a journey through the 
intricate threads of india’s handloom legacy, celebrating its unparalleled 
beauty and significance in the socio-economic milieu of the nation.
At the heart of india’s handloom heritage lies the profound legacy 
of its weavers, whose skilled hands have breathed life into some of the 
world’s most exquisite textiles. the handloom sector, ranked second 
only to agriculture in india’s unorganised sector, serves as a vital source 
of livelihood for over three million artisans across the country. From the 
detailed Pashmina shawls of Kashmir to the vibrant Bandhani sarees of gujarat, the handloom industry 
embodies the ethos of sustainable craftsmanship, rooted in tradition yet adaptable to modern sensibilities.
one cannot overlook the global recognition garnered by i ndian handloom products, which serve as 
ambassadors of the country’s cultural richness on the international stage. t hrough meticulous artisanship 
and unwavering dedication, indian weavers have carved a niche for themselves in the global market, 
with exports surpassing $300 million annually before the onset of the c ovid-19 pandemic. Despite facing 
challenges such as fluctuating market demands and competition from machine-made textiles, the resilience 
of india’s handloom sector remains unwavering, buoyed by initiatives aimed at enhancing international 
demand and promoting indigenous branding.
indeed, the story of indian handlooms is not just one of economic significance but also a narrative 
of cultural resilience and identity preservation. Across the length and breadth of the country, handloom 
clusters such as Bhujodi in Kutch, Ashavalli in Ahmedabad, and varanasi in uttar Pradesh serve as bastions 
of tradition, where age-old weaving techniques are passed down from generation to generation. t hese 
clusters not only sustain local economies but also foster a sense of community and cultural pride among 
their inhabitants.
As we immerse ourselves in the panorama of india’s handloom heritage, it’s crucial to acknowledge the 
collaborative efforts that have shaped its trajectory. various stakeholders, including government bodies, 
artisan communities, and industry players, have contributed to nurturing and elevating this cherished 
legacy. t hrough initiatives aimed at skill development, market access, and resource provision, a supportive 
ecosystem has emerged, fostering the growth and visibility of india’s handloom sector both domestically 
and internationally.
in the current edition of Yojana, we bring together insights from various subject experts and scholars, 
shedding light on the multifaceted dimensions of india’s handloom industry. t hrough scholarly discourse 
and informed analysis, we strive to unravel the fineprint of india’s weaving traditions and underscore their 
enduring relevance in an ever-evolving world. As we navigate the diverse weave of india’s handloom 
heritage, let us reaffirm our commitment to preserving and promoting this timeless legacy for generations 
to come. We are certain that the intricate storytelling in the articles to follow will inspire you to know your 
weaves and celebrate the rich legacy behind them.                                                                                                         ?
7 May 2024
eavers, printers, and dyers 
represent a unique mathematically 
competent yet aesthetically tuned 
resource group in the villages, 
small towns, and big towns. Whereas the educated 
designer would be calculating fabric structure 
from the number of threads per centimetre, the 
weaver would offer calculations from the other 
end, translating hanks of yarn into fabric structures 
by weight. 
Beginning the journey through india in the 
deep southwest, predominantly ‘white’, state of 
Kerala. White was the predominant base colour 
in all parts of india before the advent of chemical 
dyes in the late 19
th
 century. not only because of 
the compulsion of a warm-to-hot climate but also 
W
because the limited availability and expense of 
natural dyes, white was also a traditional statement 
of purity, austerity, and restraint. t he aesthetics of 
white seem to cut across class and community in a 
range of ways, from weighty, strong drapes for the 
not-so-privileged to fine counts and even silks for 
the well-to-do. A wedding sari was often just kora 
(unbleached), unwashed, and sprinkled with haldi 
(turmeric) to mark the auspicious occasion.
chemical dyes and cheaper substitutes for 
zari (gold metallic yarn) inadvertently opened 
the door to social change, which had not found 
adequate expression till then. the extravagant 
use of colour and shiny surface embellishments 
we so commonly associate with india today is an 
expression of 20
th
-century freedom enhanced 
VIBRANT WORLD OF WEAVES 
REGIONAL DIVERSITY IN INDIAN WEAVING
rta KaPur chishti the author is a textile scholar, co-author and editor of the book, ‘Saris- tradition & Beyond’. email: rtakapurchishti@gmail.com
8 May 2024
by post-independence exhilaration and freedom 
from regional and community moorings.
Weavers in Kerala were reticent and shy to 
speak of their ‘limited’ pattern elements, though 
they warmed up as soon as they realised that 
the elegance and restraint of their well-woven 
predominantly white drapes were appreciated. 
their well-woven ground was highlighted by 
the limited colour of use in borders, which 
were replaced with gold for special occasions, 
culminating in a ribbed colour or gold end piece 
that was elevated from the ground. these are 
widely seen in the weaving of Mundu veshti and 
Kasavu saris as well as dhotis in most parts of 
Kerala, beginning with the finest in Balarampuram 
in the south. there are simpler versions of these 
being woven in Kasargod and Chendamangalam 
further north. Handlooms and mills in Kerala are 
also well known for a range of home linens, such 
as towels and sheets in compact weaves, which are 
well-known within india and beyond. 
Moving northwards through Karnataka, goa, 
and Maharashtra, which are intimately related 
yet distinctly apart in their myriad plains, shots, 
stripes, and checks, often combining cotton and 
silk in numerous ingenious ways. 
in Karnataka, cotton and silk centres of weaving 
in places such as Molakalmuru with yarn resist and 
patterned elements in warp and weft and Ilkal with 
its three shuttle weaving and extra warp patterning 
continue to thrive. Along with cotton in Udupi, 
Kollegal, and Rukmapur for their well-known saris 
and fabrics. Navalgund floor coverings, Guledgudd 
for its Khana blouse fabrics in cotton and silk. it is 
worth noting that many of the silks that cannot 
be hand-reeled in other parts of india, including 
Kashmir, West Bengal, Maharashtra, and Andhra 
Pradesh, are sold in Karnataka to be woven into 
the weft of what is referred to as dupion silk, which 
uses an uneven slubbed weft yarn with a fine silk 
warp to make a fabric that has more texture than 
the evenly spun silks. 
goa was an unexpected revelation as the only 
state with a legacy of weaving being banned by the